The truth about insects on the plate
10-11-2015
Belgian pasta Aldento, made with dehydrated larvae flour. It was one of the dishes tasted inside the pavilion of Belgium at Expo 2015
«Eat insects? How disgusting!», my mother yells. Then she puts herself together and fishes from her memory: «Your granddad loved cheese with worms; it was a delicacy at the time». Please forgive this personal digression yet it well represents the cultural short circuit that many Italians experienced a few weeks ago, when the European Parliament approved at first reading the text ruling the sales of so called novel food.
Newspapers were flooded with horrifying pictures of grasshoppers ready to be eaten. Yet what does truly hide behind these sensational titles? We tried to understand this a few days ago, participating in one of the last meetings held at Expo 2015, inside the pavilion of Belgium.
Andrea Mascaretti and Marco Ceriani
Scary numbers: «80% of the fish we eat is farmed, fed with soy – continues Ceriani – Hens eat fish flour, pigs eat tallow, that is cattle fat, mostly, while we needed an EU law to forbid that the latter would be fed with their own carcasses». In other words, it’s an infernal mechanism, «Belgium offers us an alternative way». That is to say: the FAO indicates that there are 1,900 edible species of insects.
One of the dishes at restaurant Bugs & Lunch in Gent, Belgium
1) Science guarantees the consumption of insects is healthy; 2) men have always eaten them: ancient Romans used them to make a broth; 3) «They’re saying insects is “the food of the future”. I was discussing it with a Chinese and he smiled: “This is no future at all, their consumption is our tradition”», reminds Ceriani; 4) insects and crustaceans are relatives. The former disgust us, the latter don’t: it is a pure food taboo.
Some will object: perhaps it is a taboo, but why eliminate it? Mascaretti: «Food policies are dictated by multinationals, whose policies, however, are not sustainable. Today 800 million people are starving». 70% of the world population has always enjoyed insects, points out Minne, yet meanwhile between 2 and 3 billion people are changing their diet, following the Western model: «In China or India the elderly eat insects, their grandchildren want steak», explains Ceriani. From 1961 to 2010 the consumption of meat has increased by 600%.
Croquette filled with beetroot and crickets
Cécile Flagothier explains how Goffard Sisters produces a pasta branded Aldento made with larvae flour, «they have a special hazelnut taste». The point is: we need to find valid alternatives to meat, perhaps more familiar for us, such as legumes. And people must be able to taste what they want, including insects. And hope that in the meantime a global “steak war” will not explode.
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief