10-08-2016
Marcello Rossi, the "Pirate", is a chef with a long career, a real seafood expert. He directs three kitchens in San Vincenzo (Livorno), at Nautica Beach, Mistral and most of all at Mariva. In the latter case, with sous chef Alessandro Paonessa (in the photo with him in the middle). A story worth telling
The Pirate arrived in San Vincenzo from his homeland on the island of Elba. He knows everything about waves and fish, currents and crustaceans. He’s a cutting, irrepressible, eccentric and even picturesque character: an old sea wolf – born in 1956 – who investigates the waves like someone simply and distractedly observing some provinces of his empire. There are some twenty people in his crew (pardon me, team), what with Nautica, Mistral and Mariva. Three kitchens surrounded by the aroma of the sea, the softness of the dunes, the magic of the pine grove and the Mediterranean brush, scattered inside Parco di Rimigliano, along one kilometre of white strand overlooking the promontory of Piombino and the silhouette of the island of Capraia. We’re in the heart of the beautiful coast of Livorno, between San Vincenzo and Baratti, the so-called Riva degli Etruschi. Good fish rules, of course.
Relax before the meal in the equipped "oases" at Mariva
There were no steaks in his future, though, «I married my sea», and his best men were experts such as Elio Cioni «aka Ventola, a great fisherman from Elba who taught me how to boil octopus, dry cod and fill squid», or Donato Carrisi from Ponza, another prince of the nets, «he’s the one who taught me about bottarga and bonito. And taught me how to eat the Atlantic stargazer». And there were other masters too: «Giovanni Vittone, Adelmo Imparata…».
Mariva
Then, when in the evening you want a more researched meal, you have to go for Mariva, perhaps after a relaxed afternoon in one of the establishment’s reserved “oases”, where you can enjoy exclusive secluded spots on the beach, with sunbeds and gazebos, and accurate service. Here Rossi is in charge of the kitchen with the essential support of Alessandro Paonessa, 32, who’s also from Calabria, like Conidi, but from Filadelfia (Vibo Valentia)
Two dishes at Mariva: Carnaroli risotto with lemon, cream of peas with ginger and red prawns from Sicily tartare and Sautéed squid, panna cotta with garlic, courgette and purple potato rosti, passion fruit dressing
While you move from one dish to the next, the Pirate looks at you and smiles and shows his real nature, a fake grouch: you eat with pleasure, he sees you and looks happy: his sweet sea blue eyes show all the satisfaction of an ancient passion, as big as the sea.
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief