09-11-2016
Enrico Bartolini portrayed by Tanio Liotta at the start of a memorable dinner. The Tuscan chef at Mudec in Milan was in bliss: for us, this was the best Bartolini ever
Fried herb cannolo with black cabbage, on some elegant soused fish gelatine (photo gallery by Tanio Liotta)
Melanzana moderna, aubergine baked in a piece, and then reassembled. With tetragona leaf
Onion candy, mango and fat liver. The onion is dried so as to create a veil, then placed on a baking tin and completed with the filling. «This is the brigidini technique», says Bartolini, pardon the rhyme. Typical of Lamporecchio, he’s from Larciano, less than 6 km away
Soft potato, egg and eggs
Fried okra with baby calamari and green shiso
Prawns from Santa Margherita in two steps...
...with illusion of Sicilian almonds
Tuna belly and the surroundings...
...with baby calamari in a broth, green apple and salicornia
Scallop carpaccio, Piedmontese hazelnuts, Jerusalem artichoke and roasted lemon
Lomellina snails with sage and "utirancotta Maricha" green pepper
Ravioli with Tuscan peanuts, sea urchins and free-range chicken jus
Oil and lime buttons with caciucco sauce
Risotto Arlecchino
The pigeon concerto begins: first the breast with three sauces (capers, sultanas, liver, and then the jus of the pigeon itself), almost three courses in one. Then, not in the photo, a basically raw fillet
More pigeon, apotheosis: Pigeon thigh, rhubarb, liver patè and a sauce of cereals with white chocolate
Pre dessert: Come un cappero [Like a caper]
Intorno al caffè [Around coffee]
Burnt cream with cherries, meringues and frozen blueberries
I’ve known Enrico Bartolini’s cuisine since 2005. I was lucky enough to visit almost by chance the first restaurant where he took the main role, Le Robinie in Montescano, in Oltrepo Pavese. During a memorable dinner that lasted until early in the morning – with a sudden scallop of foie gras sautéed with some apricots he’d found there and then, the new day having long started – I discovered the crystal clear talent of a chef “who then went places”, as they say. Indeed, Bartolini has made a huge progress since then, the forecast was even too easy. Yet many in the food industry turned up their nose last spring when the Tuscan chef left Devero, where he had conquered two stars, and together with his group he embarked three new adventures virtually at the same time: Mudec in Milan, a gourmet restaurant with attached bistro three floors below; Casual in Bergamo, Andana in Castiglione della Pescaia (we wrote about it here). Recently Glam in Venice arrived too (read here). «Too much», whispered some, referring also to his consultancy around the world.
The dining room at Enrico Bartolini al Mudec
A drawing from the Mudec website
Ravioli with Tuscan peanuts, sea urchins and free-range chicken jus: fabulous
We haven’t mentioned the first courses: we already knew one of Bartolini’s strong suits, Oil and lime buttons with caciucco sauce, recalling his Tuscan origins. The Ravioli filled with Tuscan peanuts, sea urchins and free range chicken jus were even better in terms of austere grace. It may sound like a paradox, given how muscular, invasive the ingredients are: yet they reach a noble and perfect balance. Masterful.
All in full sail, that is? Almost. The sweet part of the meal is one step below the rest at least. After all, the collaboration with pastry chef Antonino Maresca only begun a few months ago, «give us time, will ya?» (the quote was invented. Bartolini doesn’t speak like this).
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief