Sweden swindles our margherita

Do not start to laugh, both out of respect for the people and the meaning of the event. On 26th and 27th April in Stockholm there will be, within GastroNord and Vinordic, basically Sweden’s Cibus and Vinitaly, the academy awards for Sweden’s Best Pizza. Distance between Stockholm and Naples? 2749 km, according to ViaMichelin; lowered to 2074 as the crow flows.

Not the United States, where they even believe they invented it, so much so they recently codified the various pizza styles in each metropolis, to find out more read here please, not in Japan where many Japanese people have learnt the art from us directly, but in Sweden. Which is surely not a country you’d expect to having developed its own interpretation of margherita, marinara and quattro stagioni.

Be that as it may, knowing that the Swedes are ready to elect their golden pizzaioli makes me think that the sooner we stop fighting, quarrelling and shouting in Naples and in Italy, the better. Having invented it is not enough. For years know they’ve understood a lot abroad, perhaps not everything, but they’re growing. Still it’s true that everyone on this planet dreams of having a pizza in Naples at least once. Margherita prepared and baked in the shade of Vesuvius will always be considered better than one made in Rome or Milan, Paris or New York. And since inspiration is round the corner, better note down some excellent places between Naples and Campania. We chose 16, twelve in the capital and four all around it. One recommendation: where possible, reserve a table, and in any case, be ready to be patient.

1. 50 Kalò in Piazza Sannazzaro 201b in Naples, tel. +39.081.19204667. It’s Ciro Salvo’s kingdom, the third of the Salvo brothers. He hates pizzas with too many ingredients. Don’t miss the Margherita and the one named after the pizzeria: piennolo tomatoes, endive, garlic, taggiasche olives, capers and extra virgin olive oil to finish.

2. Da Attilio alla Pignasecca, in Via Pignasecca 17 in Naples, tel. +39.081.5520479. The sign has been shining in Spaccanapoli since 1938, except the then Attilio Bachetti was the current Attilio’s grandfather. Everything has evolved, including the flour and dough, but the spirit is still real. One tip: it’s always time for the Carnevale. Attention: it’s neither round nor rectangular.

3. Carmnella in Via Cristoforo Marino 22 in Naples, tel. +39.081.5537425. In this case their story brings us back in time to the 19th Century, one Carmela after the other, one location after the other. Today the magic is thanks to Vincenzo Esposito. His must? One m or the other: Margherita or Marinara.

4. La Masardona in Via Giulio Cesare Capaccio 27 in Naples, tel. +39.081.281057. Everyone recommends this beautiful place guided by Enzo Piccirillo and immediately points out: only fried pizza and only at lunchtime (except on Saturdays). Hurray to someone who can make this special type of pizza as light as possible. Hurray.

5. La Notizia in Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio in Naples, is in fact two “Notizias”, the original, at number 53 (tel. +39.081.7142155) and the gourmet one at number 94 (+39.081.19531937) to which a place dedicated to fried pizza was recently added. Three ways of enjoying the artworks of master Enzo Coccia. Try the Procidana with chargrilled cherry tomatoes and scamorza.

6. O’ Pizzaiuolo Guglielmo Vuolo at Eccellenze Campane in Via Brin 69 in Naples, tel. +39.081.5636303. Master Vuolo and his sons for a pizza with that extra oomph. I dream about the Assoluto di Marinara.

7. Oliva – da Concettina ai Tre Santi in Via Arena alla Sanità 7bis in Naples, tel. +39.081. 290037. The Concettina in the sign is Ciro Oliva’s great grandmother. Fourth generation, he’s young, he’s talented and he’s also a little too sure of himself, typical of his age. Yet who’s to think about it when in front of Fondazione San Gennaro?

8. Pizza gourmet in Viale Michelangelo 77/83 in Naples, tel. +39.081.2292227. Giuseppe Vesi invested three years to define his concept of gourmet pizza. When he felt ready, he opened following innovation without blinkers. Go and discover the Menaica Gourmet.

9. Regina Margherita in Via Partenope 19-21 in Naples, tel. +39.081.7644629. Via Partenope that is to say on the promenade in front of Castel dell’Ovo. Plenty of history, a great return on the scene.

10. Ristorante Pizzeria Hashè in Via Partenope in Naples, tel. +39.081.19320287. Hashè has many facets: restaurant, pizzeria and sandwich shop. Plenty of crowds, plenty of sun.

11. Sorbillo in Via Tribunali 32 in Naples, tel. +39.081.446643. He’s doubtlessly the most media-oriented pizza chef in Naples. I’m speaking of Gino Sorbillo, one with a beautiful history and tradition which he now honours with many restaurants and a thousand activities. It’s hard to choose a pizza. Instead, try to visit the Casa della Pizza.

12. Starita in via Materdei 27 in Naples, tel. +39.081.5441485. Given the right proportions to the story and epopee connected with the Starita family, what a lovely pizza you can find at Giuseppe Starica’s, the latest generation with his father Antonio ambassador of Naples in the world and in Milan (like Sorbillo).

13. Pepe in grani in Vicolo San Giovanni Battisti 3 in Caiazzo (Caserta), tel. +39.0823.862718. Franco Pepe is the king of pizza chefs in the current Italian scene. His project dedicated to the land of Caiazzo goes beyond the quality of pizza itself. He’s not alone, but multiple elements and aspects unite in him. Il Sole nel piatto and Margherita alone deserve the trip.

14. Era Ora in Via Trieste 147 in Palma Campania (Naples), tel. +39.339.8587591. Pietro Parisi has lots of experience as chef, and the same place is both restaurant and pizzeria, of which Antonio La Marca takes care. Utmost attention to regional products, innovative dough, just like the menu with creative and traditional pizzas. An intelligent galaxy.

15. Francesco & Salvatore Salvo in Largo Arso 10 in San Giorgio a Cremano (Naples), tel. +39.081.275306. Someday we should try to understand why brother-chefs in Italy work together while brother-pizza-chefs in Campania don’t. Yet there’s a positive side: thanks to the Salvo brothers we have two great places. This is the mother house. Astonishing numbers, just like the pizzas. And utmost attention to the training of the dining room staff. And how about the fried food!

16. Palazzo Vialdo in Via Nazionale 981 in Torre del Greco (Naples), tel. +39.081.8471624. In a land where people become pizza chefs because so was their father, their grandfather …, Gianfranco Iervolino is a pizzaiolo mostly out of a personal vocation. After returning to Palazzo Vialdo, he started off with a new experience though the website has not yet been updated.