24-02-2016
Seventh episode in the Identità Golose series on signature dishes for 2016. After Piedmont, Aosta Valley and Liguria, Lombardy, Veneto,Trentino Alto Adige and Friuli Venezia Giulia, Emilia Romagna, Tuscany, Marche and Umbria, Lazio and Campania and Abruzzo, Molise, Apulia, Basilicata and Calabria, it’s now the turn of Sicily and Sardinia. The next and final episode will be dedicated to the new Italian great pizzas
Giuseppe Causarano, Locanda Gulfi, Chiaramonte Gulfi (Ragusa)
Smoked bonito with vine leaves, pomegranate and azeroles – The dish was created after visiting the bed of river Irminio, an unknown and pure territory crossing the Monti Iblei area and flowing into Donnalucata, where you can collect wild fruits, flowers and herbs. It represents the biodiversity of a fantastic land like Sicily, using bonito, one of the so-called "poor" fish, and a forgotten product such as azeroles. The plate, designed by myself and created by artisan Giovanni Cerruto in Modica recalls the pebbles in the Irminio river
Pino Cuttaia, La Madia, Licata (Agrigento)
Peppe Bonsignore, L’Oste e il Sacrestano, Licata (Agrigento)
Evolution of a seafood salad – Octopus steamed in green tea, carved squid, red prawn from Licata all this served on a cream of carrots and a caramel of soy made by cooking the cephalopods. I remember that as a child I used to hate octopus until my mother decided to prepare it with pickled vegetables, mostly carrots, and that’s when I first tasted it. I took off from that memory; so I began to work on the inclusion of carrots. It all began in 2009 and we change the recipe every year. We study the cooking methods, always adding some different fish, the smoking of the octopus is made with dry rosemary twigs. The almond peel adds an aroma of wood oven that recalls grandmothers’ cooking
Emanuele Russo, Le Lumìe, Marsala (Trapani)
Accursio Craparo, Accursio, Modica (Ragusa)
Peppe Barone con Ninni Radicini, Fattoria delle Torri, Modica (Ragusa)
Autumn overlapping of broad beans and beans – Overlapping means, from a composition point of view, the necessity, ambition of each human being of improving, stretching above and to the sky. On the other hand, uniting two essential legumes gives an idea of a chef’s work, which is that of synthetizing a thought. Matching them with wild herbs was a necessity almost obligatory now. A chef always unites and never separates
Corrado Assenza, Caffè Sicilia, Noto (Siracusa)
Salvatore Vicari, Vicari, Noto (Siracusa)
Massimo Giaquinta, Cortile Arabo, Pachino (Siracusa)
Francesco Scarpulla, Brunaccini, Palermo
Carmelo Trentacosti, Cuvée du Jour del Villa Igiea, Palermo
Gioacchino Gaglio, Gagini, Palermo
Baccalà profumato al miele di castagne Meli, ceci neri, germogli piccanti e castagne arrosto - Un piatto che racchiude i sapori e gli aromi della Sicilia d'inverno
Alberto Rizzo, Osteria dei Vespri, Palermo
Ciccio Sultano, Duomo, Ragusa
Claudio Ruta, La Fenice del Villa Carlotta, Ragusa
Vincenzo Candiano, Locanda Don Serafino, Ragusa
Common pandora filet in a sea of winter vegetables – The Food Valley of Ragusa is thus called because it is lucky enough to enjoy the lovely food that comes from the sea caressing its coasts, the fruit and vegetable delicacies coming from the valleys and plains, from the generous plateau, as for the olives, up to the green and thriving uplands of the Monti Iblei, to the north, where you can also pick some excellent truffles. In this dish, I present some of the winter main characters on the tables of Ragusa: artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes (patacche), wild cardoon, broccoli and cauliflowers, wild chards, leek, tartufo uncinato (truffle), all this covered, as if it were some damp soil, with a “topsoil” of bread and squid ink with extra virgin olive oil. I put them harmoniously together, kissed by the sea, represented by the cooking water from the red cabbage. The succulent meat of common pandora (mupa or occhione) stands out above all: you can taste each mouthful with a different vegetable
Andrea Macca, La Cucina di Donnacarmela, Riposto (Catania)
Martina Caruso, Signum, Salina (Messina)
Pietro D’Agostino, La Capinera, Taormina (Messina)
Bonito salad with pressed potatoes and vegetables in the Aeolian style – Here, today I express myself in this way! And colour every flavour and all the aromas on this table in blue and silver. I here present a balance union of delicious blue tailed fish, of which our sea is rich, my creativity and its colour; contrast and love, deliciousness and virtue. Yet the credit only goes to them, the organic vegetables and fruits, the fish, so nobly dressed in blue on the back and in silver on the belly. And now, with courtesy and curiosity, enjoy this simple and delicate, rich and balanced fish
Massimo Mantarro, Principe Cerami del San Domenico Palace, Taormina (Messina)
Giuseppe Costa, Il Bavaglino, Terrasini (Palermo)
Roberto Serra, Su Carduleu, Abbasanta (Oristano) Tortelli with Sardinian thorny artichoke, roasted lamb, pecorino fondant with marjoram. Exploring the traditional lamb and artichoke pair: the artichokes are cooked in a pot, minced and seasoned, and then closed into a tortello made with green pasta; the lamb is diced, deboned and roasted in a pot; the soft pecorino sauce is a sort of soft fondue. I finally add some leaves of marjoram, new extra virgin olive oil and grind some pepper
Davide Bonu, Cucina.eat, Cagliari Fregula, winter stalks and citrus fruits, smoked mullet, sheep’s milk ricotta. Tradition embracing the lively colours and flavours of the winter
Luigi Pomata, Luigi Pomata, Cagliari Fregola. This dish is an emblem of Sardinia, in this case with squid ink with cauliflower, prawns and its eggs, marjoram and lemon. I wanted to create a new take on a classic such as spaghetti with squid ink, adding a sweet-savoury note with the cauliflower cultivated close to the sea, a iodine part given by the raw prawns all freshened up by the lemon zest. The fregola was hand made and dried in the oven, cooked as a risotto, with the cooking water from the cauliflower. The prawns are chopped when raw and seasoned with marjoram while I blend the chilled head with a delicately fruity extra virgin olive oil from Bosa. At the end of the cooking I sprinkle some lemon zest to give freshness to the dish
Roberto Petza, S'Apposentu, Siddi (Medio Campidano)
Clelia Bandini, Lucitta, Tortolì (Ogliastra) Tortello with pecorino, onion sauce and crispy pork jowl from Villagrande. Very simply, it encloses my area
Final sprint for our special on all the signature recipes for the new year. Waiting for the last episode, dedicated to Italy’s pizza-chefs, Identità Golose gets on an plane and reaches Sicily and Sardinia, for a series of 24 dishes signed by the most important chefs on Italy’s largest islands. Who interpret their very original and extraordinary territories, putting roots, tradition and a forward-looking creativity together. See also 2016 dish by dish (6): Abruzzo, Molise, Apulia, Basilicata and Calabria 2016 dish by dish (5): Lazio and Campania 2016 dish by dish (4) Emilia Romagna, Tuscany, Umbria and Marche 2016 dish by dish (3): Veneto, Friuli Venezia Giulia and Trentino Alto Adige 2016 dish by dish (2): Lombardy and Milan 2016 dish by dish (1): Piedmont, Aosta Valley and Liguria
The events you cannot miss and all the news of topical interest from the food planet
by