Free Identità, pop Identità

It was a special edition of Identità Milano: the most crowed, the richest in terms of events and most of all content, the one which called the most attention, not only from this sector, that is to say among professionals who are personally involved, but also from mass media in general. Italian fine dining – which today is firmly identified with Identità Golose and which Identità Golose tries to represent in the best possible way (often succeeding), through this important means of communication and sharing goes beyond its usual boundaries, and becomes something different. For better or for worse, as some might say, those who limit themselves to judge others without moving a finger. Identità is committed in a positive development, it works hard for this reason. Over the next few days we’ll report on the media effects of what happened.

A special edition, we said earlier. This is why we thought of analysing it in an unusual way. Step by step. Asking the opinion of the two souls of Identità: the editorial and content one, represented by its creator and curator Paolo Marchi, and the entrepreneurial and managerial one, Claudio Ceroni.

The biggest satisfaction - «When we started with Identità Milano, twelve years ago, many people hurriedly accused us of copying Madrid Fusión or Gastronomika. We never concealed we were inspired by the Spanish congresses, to which we in fact always paid homage. Yet it’s like with football: it was born in England, perhaps at first Uruguay was extremely strong, but then all the others were looking, learning, and at some point they even outdid the teachers. The important thing is playing well and possibly winning. So I was vary happy that a great professional such as Gianluca Fusto, who has known me for 20 years, highlighted this very thing: how we were born is not as important as all the work we’ve done, what we said and still do. We have always renewed ourselves». (Paolo Marchi)

What we are today - «I like football-related comparisons. So here’s another. Football stars stick in your memory but they pass: this happened to Van Basten, Ronaldo, Ibra. Yet Milan remains, Inter remains. These are structured, sound entities that act as a stable point of reference. And I think that this year Identità Golose has shown it has reached this level of soundness: many people identify themselves in it, it’s an established instrument to give visibility to Italian cuisine. We don’t improvise, we continue to create new content, that is to say new champions». (Paolo Marchi)

Fears and validations - «We were a little scared, this time. Because we had just ended six very intense months at Identità Expo, which now seem distant but they’re close. So the congress risked turning out to be toned-down, a little overburdened by the long work preceding it. Instead, the feeling I had right before the eve was confirmed: the edition that has just ended was extraordinary. The merit goes to Paolo Marchi and his and our collaborators. I especially thank Paolo for having readily identified the perfect theme, The Strength of Freedom, which turned out to be spot-on and we’ll be able to develop it further in the future». (Claudio Ceroni)

The debut - «In this edition we profoundly renewed ourselves, as we also wanted to avoid a post-Expo déjà-vu effect. Paolo created new sections, from Identità di Formaggio on cheeseto Identità di Champagne, from Identità di Mare on seafood to Identità di Caffè on coffee: they went very well. Even the new format called La Scuola di Identità Golose, which we presented as a collateral event open to the public had an extraordinary outcome and we will repeat it and enlarge it. The focus on wine, in collaboration with Merano Wine Festival also went well. The exhibitors’ stands went incredibly well and increased further and substantially. An excellent result». (Claudio Ceroni)

Bolasco and content - «I thanked Fusto, I must also thank Marco Bolasco, who wrote a nice article, acknowledging Identità Milano not just as a large “container” but also one capable of showing remarkable content. He mentioned Klugmann, Romito, Bottura, Lopriore, Camarena. All true». (Paolo Marchi)

My content – «What I liked the most? I’ll write it in the next few days, in a piece I have in mind. Yet two things come to my mind and I want to mention them right away, on top of course the speeches given by heavyweights such as Bottura or Cracco. The first: Paolo Lopriore’s lesson. He’s the kind of person who follows his path with huge coherence. He changes, he’s in Siena, then Como, then Milan, but you can see that there are ideas behind, with or without stars, to which he pays no attention. He always has something to say, which he shares. Paolo is great because he’s like that, beside contingencies. Second thing I want to underline, Cesare Battisti’s speech: he was worried, in the eve, but was very good in bringing back the attention to another type of sustainability, on top of the environmental which is often covered and rightly so, that is to say economic sustainability. You can design the perfect, ethical, ecological, waste-less, pleasant restaurant with great food and an unobjectionable service: yet the whole shebang must stand, or else its pointless. What we write in the menu must be realistic, you then need to pay employees and taxes. Theory alone is of little help». (Paolo Marchi)

Media exposure and Identità pop (1) - «The fact it went greatly is confirmed by the exceptional media coverage, something we had never achieved in the past, of which we took great pleasure: press, tv, radio, social networks. This year we even verged on pop, I’ll give two examples: the first lesson by Davide Scabin, unusual, and our presence on television “in a different role”, I’m referring to the link with tv channel La7, with Simone Salvini and his imitation by Maurizio Crozza». (Claudio Ceroni)

Identità pop (2) - «Some said there was too much bailamme. My reply: it’s inevitable. It’s as if, when we were first born, we were a black and white tv set. Today we’re in colour and digital is soon to come. The world evolves, we communicate in different ways, and a little colour is part of the game. What’s important is for all this not to erase the content, and of that we had as much as ever, everyone, almost, acknowledged it. Do some turn up their noses because of selfies with chefs, food bloggers, autographs? Too bad, as long as we remain authoritative and don’t loose our way. In fact, it’s great the topic is of such big interest!». (Paolo Marchi)

The future - «We’ll have Identità New York, Identità Chicago, we’re working at Identità London and we’re also finding a spot in Asia, because the experience with Expo allowed us to develop important connections and plan new projects. But it’s still early to speak about it» (Claudio Ceroni)

THE ENTIRE 2016 CONGRESS*

Tuesday 8th March
Auditorium, afternoon: Dossier Dessert by Sonia Gioia
Auditorium, morning: Peru by Carlo Passera
The Identità di Pasta Day by Carlo Passera and Sonia Gioia
The Identità di Mare Day by Andrea Cuomo and Luciana Squadrilli
Identità di Champagne, day 3 by Andrea Cuomo
La Scuola, day 3 by Barbara Giglioli
Expo area, afternoon by Cecilia Todeschini
Expo area, morning by Cecilia Todeschini

Monday 7th March
Auditorium, afternoon by Sonia Gioia
Auditorium, morning by Carlo Passera
The contemporary chef’s manifesto by Massimo Bottura
The kitchen decalogue by Cesare Battisti
The Identità di Caffè Day by Andrea Cuomo and Luciana Squadrilli
The afternoon at Identità di Pizza by Carlo Passera and Luciana Squadrilli
The morning with Bread, panettone and pandoro by Luciana Squadrilli
Identità di Champagne, day 2 by Andrea Cuomo
La Scuola, day 2 by Barbara Giglioli
Expo area, afternoon by Cecilia Todeschini
Expo area, morning by Cecilia Todeschini

Sunday 6th March
Auditorium, afternoon by Sonia Gioia
Auditorium, morning by Carlo Passera
The Identità Naturali Day by Luciana Squadrilli
The morning at Identità di Gelato by Sonia Gioia
The afternoon at Identità di Formaggio by Carlo Passera
The debate on Michelin stars and pizzerias by Sonia Gioia
Identità di Champagne, day 1 by Andrea Cuomo
La Scuola, day 1 by Barbara Giglioli
Premio Birra Moretti Grand Cru, new edition by Claudia Orlandi
The S.Pellegrino round table by Cecilia Todeschini
Expo area, afternoon by Cecilia Todeschini
Expo area, morning by Cecilia Todeschini

*Editor in chief: Gabriele Zanatta, photos: Brambilla/Serrani, Italian/English translations Slawka G. Scarso