29-07-2014
Paolo Marchi during the Identità Milano 2014 congress. The eleventh edition (February 8-10th 2015) will be preceded by Identità New York (October 9-12th 2014), the Italian Food & Wine Festival in Chicago (October 14-16th), the presentation of the Guida ai Ristoranti in Milan (November 10th) and the Roma Food & Wine Festival (November 29th-December 1st) (photo credits Brambilla-Serrani)
2. see part one Some people have a very long sight, and as tomorrow approaches, they’re already thinking about the day after. Take Paolo Marchi one morning at breakfast, ask him about Identità Milano 2015, eleventh edition, and he appears to be more concentrated on the following one, because «it will be the one after the Expo and there’s a risk of witnessing a sort of reflux in the Italian wine and food sector. Our challenge will be to grow in 2016 as well». A bit like what happened in 2008, the fourth year, when the economic crisis was already biting, but the spaces at Palazzo Mezzanotte seemed even more crowded: they were not enough. So we took the decision: the next year we moved to the larger rooms of the Milano Convention Center, something that according to many was a gamble, «but hadn’t we moved, we would have suffocated and died».
Always looking ahead, in other words. Marchi: «As Italians, we’re specialised in doing nothing to promote our splendid products; we continue to speak just because we like the sound of our voice, while Budapest will host the selections for the Bocuse d’Or 2016. Last year they took place in Stockholm, in order to present Hungary’s candidacy, the ex president of the Republic and gold medal in the Olympics Pál Schmitt got on stage. He said: “We want to become the next European gourmet capital”. Have you understood? They only have goulash and tokaji, but they call important names to arms; Italy has everything but sends some unknown director from the ministry. Who do you think they will listen?».
Chef Enrico Crippa during his lecture at Identità Milano 2014. Marchi praises his modernity («He makes you eat lots of vegetables without making you feel like a cow»). He will also be among the protagonists of Stelle di Stelle in London (photo credits Brambilla-Serrani)
Fine dining and healthy diet, therefore. Identità Milano 2015, however, will also include two other innovations. There will be Identità Piccanti [Spicy Identità] a day dedicated to hot palates, «In Thailand they get cross if we say that their cuisine is overwhelmed by this dimension, they say it is only one of the components and in fact we are the ones who neglect it. In other words, it is a theme worth discussing». Then there’s Identità di Montagna, following the recent Identità Cortina: «I’m fascinated by the idea of Spaghetti aglio olio, in which the oil is made with Swiss pine. I like to think about canederli, which are delicious, in a version that looks at the future. I’m also amused...». Enough, Paolo! We stop him: he’s a volcano of ideas but for now this is enough.
The two “souls” of Identità Milano (and all the other Identità Golose activities): Paolo Marchi and Claudio Ceroni (photo credits Brambilla-Serrani)
The biggest news, however, is expected in London: starting on September 1st a temporary restaurant lasting five months – called “Stelle di Stelle”, in Italian – will open in Harrods’ legendary headquarters, a unique event that ratifies the collaboration with the famous English brand, previously begun. It will be a prestigious showcase for our cuisine, «we’re happy to walk it into the limelight», gloats Ceroni. “5 Italian chefs, 13 Michelin stars” is the slogan, because the protagonists in the kitchen, one month each, will be Carlo Cracco, the Cerea brothers, Gennaro Esposito, Enoteca Pinchiorri and finally Enrico Crippa. Signed by: “Harrods in partnership with Identità Golose London”. How about that?
2. the end
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by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief