Lopriore: Como, Amaro, broths

«Good morning chef, shall we do this interview on your relationship with Amaro, the subject of the lecture you will hold at the congress?». He looks hesitant: «Let’s do it. However, I will not speak about Amaro at Identità Milano». Now I am hesitant: «It’s on the programme...». He quickly replies: «True, but I’m called on the stage of Identità Estreme and Amaro has nothing extreme left, for me, it is an essential part of my cuisine. Today I’m focusing on different worlds. This is why I’d rather talk about my project on broths».

It’s no surprise that Paolo Lopriore can have a coup de théâtre set aside: the most brilliant and controversial chef in Italy has anti-conformism in his DNA.

Broth? They’re very fashionable, are you joining the others?

«I know colleagues such as Alajmo and Berton are working on this too. But I’m not doing it to imitate them: it’s the territory that requested this from me, the climate. Working in Como changes my vision: here I don’t use black cabbage as in Siena, I had to use cabbage, I will tell at the congress. I will explain my cassoeula with cabbage for which I use pig ears and feet and these new broths I’m experimenting, which do not use water but vegetable centrifuged juices».

What broth with cassoeula?

«Onion one. I centrifuge one kilo, when raw, and make around 6 espresso cups. Then I put it on the heat with the pig for two hours. The result is a sort of “pork digestif”: the acid parts are concentrated and the liquid, drunk hot, seems like a digestif».

«There will be a centrifuge juice of carrot seeds that has a bitter and spicy side that then leads to a floral bouquet».

Let’s now return for a second to your connection with Amaro. How was it born?

«It’s not a matter of simple use of an aroma, but the result of a de-structuring I have always conducted on ingredients. This has enhanced Amaro. It’s like having to do with a girl all dressed and made up and then discover what’s hiding underneath the blusher… I’ve always manipulated Amaro: with my sage sauce, with the cypress one».

Is Amaro something for old people?

«Salty is for weaning, acid is for adolescence, bitterness is for maturity. For that time in life in which the palate is ready to appreciate it. Bitterness is an element of life’s complexity. But let’s speak about broths…».

Ancient Romans already enjoyed burbot liver, considered a true delicacy by the Tsars. Fishermen on lake Como treat it as a waste to give to the ducks. Lopriore: «There is no narrated cooking, this work has yet to be done. See, I’m falling in love with Como»

«I’m thinking about a carrot concentrate to match with rabbit, at a pepper one for lamb... I use a Thai technique: in a broth that is cooling down, the fat part surfaces and separates from the limpid, central part while impurities precipitate. These are simple concepts, after all... Or so to speak: you need an idea and lots of technique».

Your research on broths was inspired by the place to which you have now moved. Does this territory inspire you in other ways too?

«During the holidays I read a book, L'arte della cucina sovietica [Mastering the art of Soviet cooking (Random House)]. It also speaks about Como. It explains that at the Tsar’s court the liver of burbot, a freshwater fish, was considered a delicacy as much as foie gras. Here in lake Como burbot is common. I spoke with some fishermen: its liver is thrown into the water to feed the ducks. This is a territory of invasions and smuggling, people have always been too busy defending themselves with a bayonet, to develop a culinary culture. There is no narrated cooking, this work has yet to be done. See, I’m falling in love with Como, even though I have Tuscan memories. So I use Lombard pigs for the ear, and cinta senese for the roast. I agree with Corrado Assenza: good food is preferable to local food».