An Italian is already at Bocuse

When almost six months ago we read that for the first time in history a girl, and a very young one too (she was only 23 at the time) had won the selections in Brazil for the Bocuse d’Or, it made us happy. Then, over a month ago we learnt she also came first in the South American finals in Mexico, earning the right to represent her continent in the big finals in Lyon next year, with her country’s press crazy about her and amidst general praise: «Giovanna Grossi and her team shined in a competition of the highest level» (Gastón Acurio, jury president); «Giovanna is a great person. We’re very proud of her victory. She’s a very determined girl, I’m sure we’ll hear lots about her» (Xano Saguer, of Espai Sucre in Barcelona); «She’s a great professional. Despite being still young, she already has one of the most important characteristics every chef needs: posture! There’s no doubt she’s going to establish herself» (Roberta Sudbrack, Best Female Chef 2015 in Latin America); «I’m happy she’ll be the one to represent us. Bocuse d'Or tests skills and knowledge under pressure and in little time. Even the best chef can fail, you just need to make one mistake» (Thomas Troisgros, of Olympe in Rio de Janeiro. Thomas is the son of Claude, the brother of Michel, that is to say the person continuing the myth of his father Pierre’s Maison Troisgros in Roanne, France).

In other words, it seems there’s no doubt the girl is excellent. We had a different doubt, however: could it be, with that name, “Giovanna Grossi”… «True, I have Italian origins - she confirms to Identità Golose - The Grossi family comes from the Marche, my grandfather Antonio’s family lived in San Severino, his father was a farmer. They were then forced to emigrate, like many others, not only Italians (Giovanna’s mother’s surname is Mayer, with clear German origins). At the time, Brazil was looking for workers for coffee plantations; so the Grossi family sold all they had and travelled to Sao Paolo. It was very hard, the trip by ship took 30 days. My grandmother told me that one of her two sisters, the youngest, didn’t make it, she died during the journey across the Atlantic Ocean because the ship was very dirty and there wasn’t enough food for everyone. Many others shared the same destiny. My granmother’s and grandfather’s families already knew each other, they came from the same village; but my grandparents only got married when they were already here, in Brazil. After all, one must remember the largest Italian community outside of Italy is here in San Paulo.

Do you have relatives in Italy?
«I know I have an aunt who still lives in Italy but I’ve never met her. My brother Bruno spent many months in Florence, last year, he’s also a chef and wanted to learn real Italian cuisine and the language, he wanted to rediscover our roots. I’d also like to do so, come to Italy and stay there for a while; I haven’t had the chance yet, but I hope it will come very soon, perhaps next year, after the Bocuse d'Or finals».

Have you ever been to Italy?
«Yes, but only once. I know Italian cuisine a little, I love it. It’s the richest in flavours (or perhaps I believe it is because I’m half Italian!). I love burrata, my favourite dessert is tiramisu and I have a real passion for carpaccio».

Do you know the most famous chefs, like Bottura, Alajmo, Cracco and so on?
«I know them. When I was in Italy I tried to dine in Modena at Bottura’s Osteria Francescana, but it was full. Last year Alajmo was in Brazil but I wasn’t here; I like his book, his photographer, Sergio Coimbra, is from Brazil. Cracco too is a great chef, I’d say he’s almost an artist. I love the way they all work, they’re a big source of inspiration for me. I hope to meet them some day».

Where does your passion for cooking come from?
«My parents Luiz and Marly have a restaurant in Maceió, the city where I’ve always lived. It’s called Parmegianno. I prepare Brazilian-Italian food. Maceió is a small city by the sea and the restaurant serves, on top of a typical food from my country such as feijoada, also lots of seafood... But we don’t forget our origins so we also have Italian dishes such as pasta and pizza in the menu. I believe my passion was thus born at home, in our restaurant; this influenced my decision to continue down this road. When I finished my normal education, I moved to Sao Paolo to study culinary arts».

Do people in Brazil love Italian cuisine? Are there good Italian restaurants in Brazil?
«Of course. As I said, in Sao Paolo there’s the largest Italian community abroad, the influence of Italian tradition is thus very strong. Of course we speak about Italian food, but cooked with a Brazilian style! There are at least three places offering excellent Italian cuisine: Salvatore Loi’s restaurant and Fasano».

How would you define your cooking, and where do you get your inspiration from?
«I don’t think I have a style of my own yet. For sure I love travelling and learning about new products and techniques, so when I go back home I experiment in my kitchen. At 24 there’s still plenty to learn!».