27-10-2016

From Vienna with Grace

In Austria, at Oliver Lucas’ new interesting restaurant. For many years he was the sous chef at Steirereck

Petra and Oliver Lucas, husband and wife. She’s

Petra and Oliver Lucas, husband and wife. She’s in the dining room, he’s in the kitchen, and since last June they sign the offer at Grace, the most interesting and hip restaurant in Vienna. Oliver is English and for many years he was the right arm of Heinz Reitbauer, chef at Steirereck, currently number 9 in the World's 50Best (photo credits diepresse.com)
 

Oliver Lucas first graduated in English literature from the University of Manchester, but kitchen soon became his real test bed. In the past 7 years, this lad from London was first chef de partie and then sous chef in Vienna at Steirereck (currently number 9 in the World's 50Best), the right arm of Heinz Reitbauer. Together the two chefs designed the menu of a restaurant much acclaimed by critics.

Since last June Lucas started his own business with his wife Petra, adapting an old tavern with a nice garden for this purpose. It is probably already the most thrilling fine dining place in town. The restaurant, very small, seats only 16 people. The 4-course tasting menu is 48 euros, the 6-course is 66 euros and the 8 one (which is basically the entire menu) is 84 euros. These compositions have a sublime precision offered with humble simplicity and no frills: at Steirereck Lucas well understood that substance is much more important than pretentious dish presentations – an approach only the truly great chefs can pursue.

At Grace, seating a total of 16 people (photo kurier.at)

At Grace, seating a total of 16 people (photo kurier.at)

The Asparagus will arrive raw, next to a grapefruit marinated in Earl Grey, with caramelised walnuts and fresh sheep’s cheese: strong contrasts focused on bitterness, extreme lightness, good freshness and crispiness. A very striking dish. The Flounder is instead made lighter and paired with carrots in three types of combination: the chef toasts it in coconut and ginger, paying no attention to purists, a trick created to emphasise the palate.

The meat dishes in the menu are always two (currently duck and lamb). It may happen that the guinea-fowl is served crispy, fried on the skin side with chanterelle mushrooms and peas – something creating a marvellous tension and interaction between fresh acidity, toasted notes and typical forest aromas. You can also often find in the menu some nostalgic hints at old-style classic cuisine: Puff pastry vol-au-vent with ragout made with chicken thighs and beer: extremely fat but pleasant and delicate.

The atmosphere is certainly not typical of a culinary temple, but the food compensates this lack very much.

Grace
Danhausergasse 3
Vienna, Austria
+43.(0)1.5031022
Tasting menu: 48, 66 and 84 euros
Closed on Sunday and Monday; open at lunchtime only on Saturdays


Dal Mondo

Reviews, recommendations and trends from the four corners of the planet, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose

by

Severin Corti

born and living in Wien, Austria, he works as Der Standard daily newspaper food editor, he's the editor-in-chief of Slow Food Country Inns Guide. He also writes for Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung

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