20-09-2016
Clockwise from 12 o’clock: Gnocchi made with semolina, diced kidneys with tomato, goat kefir, turmeric and pepper sauce. This is one of the sequences you might happen to create at Il Portico, the restaurant Paolo Lopriore opened last 4th August in Appiano Gentile (Como). A brave tribute to conviviality, the result of a deep analysis of the anthropological roots of Italian food (photo by Zanatta)
Over the past few months we’ve often written about Paolo Lopriore. We gave wide space to his exploration and redefinition of the anthropological roots of Italian cuisine, a convivial celebration of meals which the chef himself successfully depicted at Cook_Inc 15 as «a cultural fact in which gestures, materials and customs participate with equal importance and value as the dishes themselves».
This young man first turned this format into practice at restaurant I Tre Cristi in Milan, during the summer of Expo. And on 4th August he moved it to Il Portico, the restaurant he opened in his hometown Appiano Gentile, in the province of Como. The outline is well known: in the centre of the table they serve a baking tin filled each time with substantial ingredients (lavaret filets, gnocchi made with semolina, slices of oven-baked veal...). All around the serving dish, 4 or 5 bowls and plates big and small appear, with different content and textures (black pepper sauce, carrot seed extract, apricots preserved in vinegar, mosto cotto, goat kefir…). Guests are invited to build their own dish in the way and sequence they prefer at that moment. It’s an alliance between chef and client that generates intriguing, elegant and delicious solutions, livened up by the warm atmosphere which never weighs on the person eating for a very simple reason: if you’re going to finish the dish yourself, you can’t feel uneasy. These are the first flashes of a revolution that could have proselytes. A beginning with a clean slate compared to some post-Escoffier rituals and the reproduction of unauthentic models in today’s dining. A subversion that in fact restores and reinterprets with intelligence some typical dynamics we have. We tried to sum this up through two keys: the advantages this format has for the client, and the benefits it brings to the chef/patron.
Paolo Lopriore arrives at the table armed with a steamer: he pours a juice of butter and gin with which he’ll enrich some sui generis sautéed mussels
- Taste’s central role. It is true clients are free to compose their dish. Yet the choice of the elements to add is the result of the chef’s almost 30 years of experience (he wore the first apron in 1988 at Riviere in Appiano, now closed: «At the end of the season, the salary was a suitcase with Montana knives»). These tastings are almost always super delicious, regardless of their distribution. The flavours are on the edge between lightened up pure tradition and stimulating challenges (and not only because of Lopriore’s proverbial explorations of sour and bitter tones).
- The playful dimension. The party’s format easily creates a pleasant atmosphere. Some lines of dialogue overheard from nearby tables: «We’re three and there’s a total of 9 pieces of fish. I saw you take 4…». «Is there some goat kefir left for my gnocco? Too late, sorry, you shouldn’t have gone to the toilet». - The chef finishes the dish at the table. It is often Lopriore himself who takes part in the service. In this process the objects honouring the table (some sort of modern centrepieces) have a significant role. They were created by Tuscan friend and designer Andrea Salvetti (like the Steamer or the Mistery pot, we wrote about it here). «Andrea is the artistic side», the chef points out to avoid any misunderstanding, «I’m instead the person who needs to understand when the mussels are cooked». - The Italian menu. In the end, the way Il Portico is organised today, you can enjoy a complete menu. That is to say there are the four courses typical of Italian meals: starter, first course, main course, dessert (in the evening; at lunchtime there’s a single course dish). Speaking of first courses, Lopriore is also working on the service of some pasta to share, «But it’s complicated because people don’t really know what to do when they’re served a baking tin of pasta with some sauce beside».
Sciatt valtellinesi, iced seaweeds, sauce of bay leaves, fermented cabbage, parsley and celery salad. Lopriore is also studying a menu of historic dishes, helped by food historian Luca Govoni, teacher at Alma
Figs with pears, glazed almonds, fiordilatte ice cream and mosto cotto, the curtain at the end of the menu at Il Portico
Il Portico Piazza della Libertà Appiano Gentile (Como) +39.031.930338 Tasting menu: 50 and 60 euros in the evening; 14/16 euros for a single course dish at lunchtime. Closed on Saturday at lunchtime, on Tuesday night and the entire day on Wednesday.
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt