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Guida 2014 - Acquista ora
Josean Alija Eugenio Boer Aurora Mazzucchelli Henrik Yde Simone Salvini Nino Di Costanzo Valeria Piccini
Alain Ducasse Identità  Golose - i protagonisti della cucina Roberto Pongolini
David Kinch Fabio Barbaglini
Felice Sgarra Bo Songvisava e Dylan Jones
Daniela Cicioni Viviana Varese Moreno Cedroni Roberta Pezzella Pascal Barbot Wylie Dufresne Pierre Hermé
10-04-2014

Henderson, a lifetime achievement

British chef Fergus Henderson just won the Lifetime Achievement Award, ahead of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2014, taking place on the 28th of April at the London's Guildhalil. A meat maestro and founding partner of St. John, with several restaurants in London, Henderson has been awarded mainly because of the promotion of nose-to-tail cooking – the use of every part of the animal, which is now practised in many kitchens

30-03-2014

Ninth Festival Loiseau at Belle Mare Plage

Ninth edition from 30th March, at Belle Mare Plage, a resort of Constance group on the island of Mauritius, of the Festival Culinaire Bernard Loiseau, ending Sunday 6th April. Six European young starred chefs and six young chefs of Constance group will cook divided into pairs, one cook from abroad one from here. In the jury, with madame Dominique Loiseau and chef Patrick Bertron, also Identità Golose with Paolo Marchi

25-03-2014

Helena Rizzo best female chef 2014

Helena Rizzo, chef of Maní restaurant in Sao Paolo, Brazil, is the Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef 2014, according to the jury of World's 50Best Restaurant. Rizzo succeeds in the award to glorious colleagues such as Nadia Santini, Bask Elena Arzak and French Anne-Sophie Pic. The paulista chef will be awarded in London on next 28th April, the day when the 50 best restaurant's list will be officially announced

12-03-2014

Berezutskiy best Russian young chef

It's Sergej Berezutskiy from Moscow the best young chef of the year 2014 in his country. The title, awarded today at restaurant White Rabbit in Moscow by an almost entirely Italian jury, will allow the cook to take part to the S.Pellegrino Cooking Cup 2014, scheduled in Venice for next June. Sergej is the twin brother of Ivan, already a name in the panorama of young and creative Russian cuisine

24-02-2014

Nahm at the top of Asia

Bangkok's Nahm has been voted the best restaurant according to the S.Pellegrino Asia's World's 50 Best. The restaurant by chefs Thompson and Polsuk (recently seen at Identità Milano) ensues Tokyo's Narisawa, who ranked second this year. At the 3rd place, an Indian restaurant, Gaggan, based in Bangkok. Hong Kong's Amber ranked 4th and Tokyo's Ryugin 5th. With 17 restaurants out of the 50 China is the most represented country in the list

15-02-2014

Bonci and Cuttaia ready for Omnivore

Paris, France, March 16-18th: the next edition of Omnivore, the "100% jeune cuisine" cooking congress, is ready to start at the Maison de la Mutualité, rue Saint Victor. In between the French chefs, both promising and already successful - from Piège to Toutain; from Pierre Gagnaire to Guillame Monjuré -  the schedule will include two Italians: Pino Cuttaia from Sicily and bread-and-pizza chef Gabriele Bonci from Rome

31-01-2014

Italy-Thailand, a dinner at Trussardi

An important dinner will take place on Sunday February the 9th at Trussardi Alla Scala in Milan: resident chef Luigi Taglienti will host colleagues Dylan Jones and Bo Songvisava of Bo.lan restaurant in Bangkok, for a special meal organized together with Identità Golose. The tasting menu will include 6 dishes at the cost of 150 euro per person. For informations and bookings, alessandrolonghin-ext@trussardi.com, +39.366,6467249 

20-01-2014

Ice-cream: France wins, Italy second

France has just won the sixth edition of Coppa del Mondo di Gelateria, Ice-cream world cup, at Sigep in Rimini. The team's subject, led by Elie Cazaussus and composed by Christophe Bouret, Benoit Lagache, Jean Christophe Vitte and Yazid Ichemrahen was about “Leonardo Da Vinci's universe”. Italy ranked second with Stefano Biasini, Massimo Carnio, Marco Martinelli e Luca Mazzotta. Poland ranked third

03-01-2014

Luigi Nastri heads to Paris

Starting today, Luigi Nastri, always a chef of Settembrini in Rome, is the cook chief of Gazzetta restaurant in Paris. The former chef (and founder) Petter Nillson decided it was time to go back to Stockholm where his family lives. As Scatti di Gusto states, the Roman colony in Paris is now stronger than ever: after Giovanni Passerini at Rino, now it's time for Luigi Nastri

28-12-2013

Eater's best restaurants 2013

Pakta in Barcelona, Amass and Bror in Copenaghen, Carbone and Mission Cantina in New York, Chengdu Taste in Los Angeles, Edwins in Cleveland, Saltimporten Canteen in Malmö. Sweden, Vin Papillon in Montreal (Canada). These are just a few of many restaurants quoted into the traditional Eater's survey. The renowned food online magazine asked the opinion to several important food journalists and experts

16-12-2013

Gvci, Salicrù chef of the year

Ivan Icra Salicrù of restaurant Ronda in Dubai was nominated chef of the year by Gvci, Gruppo virtuale di cuochi italiani, an award estabilished to celebrate non Italian chefs cooking Italian cuisine abroad. Salicrù will receive a silver plate and will be invited to take part, next January the 17th, to the International Day of Italian Cuisines. The Italian dish they celebrate this year is Spaghetti with tomato and basil

12-12-2013

AltoGusto at Tivoli in Cortina

Dolomiti mountains are hosting AltoGusto, a gastronomic tour dedicated to cucina d'autore in the best restaurants of the area, with menu inspired by the theme "Cinema in the kitchen". On Friday December 13th, you can have dinner at Tivoli in Cortina d'Ampezzo (Belluno) with chef Graziano Prest and Cantine Ferrari, together with an homage to actor Alberto SordiAltoGusto will proceed then with 6 more dinners

02-12-2013

Happy birthday, Identità English

December 2nd 2012 – December 2nd 2013 – the English version of Identità Golose’s website turns one. During the past 365 days, Slawka G. Scarso’s team has translated as many as 410 articles in 28 sections, a great number of pieces to be added to the over 300 portraits of chefs and to the hundreds of recipes that have enriched the website from the start. This important project aims to increase the audience of enthusiasts far beyond the Italian borders

27-11-2013

Casa Vicina's 10th anniversary

Tomorrow night, great dinner at Eataly Lingotto in Turin. They will celebrate the 10th year anniversary of restaurant Casa Vicina - Guido per Eataly, one Michelin star. Together with Claudio and Anna Vicina there will also be chef Peter Brunel. Dinner is 75 euro per person, wines included, 8 courses from Potato cooked in argyle together with rice stems and trout eggs to an Inusual panettone. For bookings +39.011.19506840

19-11-2013

Bottura and the Operazione Parigi

It's called Operazione Parigi and it's a project that is "going to take Italian food culture to the gastronomic capital of the world", with lectures on excellence held at the Italian institute of culture taken by Massimo Bottura, the first promoter, together with 16 important colleagues: Uliassi, Cedroni, Esposito, Perbellini, Cuttaia, Sultano, Oldani, Romito, Alajmo, Cannavacciuolo, Cracco, Scabin, Beck, Crippa, Berton, Cerea and Niederklofer

 

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Identità Golose 10 years (Video Brambilla - Serrani - Cicogna, duration 5'31")

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22-04-2014

Magic between Mauritius and Sweden

The surprise oyster served by Holmström, chef at Gastrologik in Stockholm, at the Festival Loiseau

A portrait, downloaded from the website of the Gastrologik Restaurant in Stockholm, of the two chefs and owners of the restaurants which stands apart from the offer in the Swedish capital because there is no menu from which to choose from: left, glasses and dark hair, Anton Bjuhr, and right, blond Jacob Holmström. The latter is the author of an oyster that was highly appreciated during one of the gala dinners held within the Festival Bernard Loiseau in Mauritius
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A portrait, downloaded from the website of the Gastrologik Restaurant in Stockholm, of the two chefs and owners of the restaurants which stands apart from the offer in the Swedish capital because there is no menu from which to choose from: left, glasses and dark hair, Anton Bjuhr, and right, blond Jacob Holmström. The latter is the author of an oyster that was highly appreciated during one of the gala dinners held within the Festival Bernard Loiseau in Mauritius


The recent ninth edition of the Festival culinaire Bernard Loiseau, at the BelleMarePlage resort in Mauritius, ended on Saturday April 5th with the announcement of the winner, Dammika Sarath, chef at the Constance Halaveli Maldives. This was preceded, on Friday, by a dinner prepared by the six European chefs who, during the entire week, supported their six colleagues participating in the competition, all six born in countries that face the Indian Ocean and working for the Constance group in the Maldives, Seychelles and Mauritius.

The six starred chefs were English Tim Allen of Launceston Place in London, Jacob Holmström (Gastrologik Restaurant in Stockholm), Mirto Marchesi from Canton Ticino (Les Chalets d’Adrien in Verbier), Japanese Masachi Ijichi (La Cachette in Valence), then German Jens Rittmeyer (Budersand Restaurant in Hornum) and finally French Nicolas Masse (Les Sources de Caudalie in Bordeaux).

Dammika Sarath, chef working at Constance Halaveli Maldives, winner of the 2014 edition of Festival Bernard Loiseau
Foto

Dammika Sarath, chef working at Constance Halaveli Maldives, winner of the 2014 edition of Festival Bernard Loiseau

Out of all the dishes served, the one that charmed me the most that night was the first one: Oyster, no other word. One could discuss at length, whether it is better to give an essential title on the menu, with about just the main ingredient, or one those names that sometime require more time to read than to eat the dish itself. We’ll never get to the point where everyone agrees.

Whatever one’s opinion may be, when I find a minimalist title, such as in this case with Holmström, I wonder what may the journey that the chef has taken with that ingredient be. I do not expect something I already know, something traditional. Indeed, Jacob’s oyster was everything but the sole oyster. And it was so good.

You need to be very brave to use a Belon (but also the oysters from the waters in the region of Goteborg and in the south-west of Sweden) because it is so perfect by itself that it would be easy to spoil it. This was not the case in Mauritius and I can’t wait for the European finals of Bocuse d’Or to take place (on May 7-8th, in Stockholm) to be able to dine at Gastrologik, a place where not only there are two chefs, since there’s also Anton Bjuhr, but where, most of all, there’s no menu from which to choose from, only a tasting menu that depends on the daily market offer.

The oyster served by Jacob Holmström, one of the two chefs of Gastrologik Restaurant in Stockholm, during one of the several meal that enlivened Bernard Loiseau Festival in Mauritius
Foto

The oyster served by Jacob Holmström, one of the two chefs of Gastrologik Restaurant in Stockholm, during one of the several meal that enlivened Bernard Loiseau Festival in Mauritius

The gastrologik oyster is enclosed between a crème fraîche, a creamy sour cream underneath, a snow of grated apples on top, and a hint of spruce oil. I would have enjoyed much more than one. I asked Holmström the recipe, so here it goes.

Oyster


For 4 persons

4 oysters,
1 red apple, at the restaurant we use normally a Swedish one called Ingrid-Marie.
About 100g of spruce needles
50g of nice fresh creme-fraiche
10g of oil infused with spruce shoots
Some fresh spruce shoots if in season.
A quarter of a cucumber
Salt if needed

Peel the apples and save the peel. Freeze the apples completely then grate them on a very fine grater, keep frozen. Open the oysters, save the oyster juice. Wash the oysters in iced water, meanwhile heat up the oyster juice pull it aside and let the spruce needles infuse in the oyster juice, ad salt if the oysters are not very salt. When cold again you pour it back over the oysters and let marinate for about 4 hours. Cut the apple peels very fine and put in ice water, they curl up and look almost like an alque. Cut the cucumber in fine brunoise, season with the spruce oil. Clean the oystershell and put the creme fraiche in the bottom, then the seasoned cucumber brunoise followed by the oyster. Finnish with the frozen, grated apple, the apple peels and the spruces shoots.

Paolo Marchi
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