22-04-2014
A portrait, downloaded from the website of the Gastrologik Restaurant in Stockholm, of the two chefs and owners of the restaurants which stands apart from the offer in the Swedish capital because there is no menu from which to choose from: left, glasses and dark hair, Anton Bjuhr, and right, blond Jacob Holmström. The latter is the author of an oyster that was highly appreciated during one of the gala dinners held within the Festival Bernard Loiseau in Mauritius
The recent ninth edition of the Festival culinaire Bernard Loiseau, at the BelleMarePlage resort in Mauritius, ended on Saturday April 5th with the announcement of the winner, Dammika Sarath, chef at the Constance Halaveli Maldives. This was preceded, on Friday, by a dinner prepared by the six European chefs who, during the entire week, supported their six colleagues participating in the competition, all six born in countries that face the Indian Ocean and working for the Constance group in the Maldives, Seychelles and Mauritius.
The six starred chefs were English Tim Allen of Launceston Place in London, Jacob Holmström (Gastrologik Restaurant in Stockholm), Mirto Marchesi from Canton Ticino (Les Chalets d’Adrien in Verbier), Japanese Masachi Ijichi (La Cachette in Valence), then German Jens Rittmeyer (Budersand Restaurant in Hornum) and finally French Nicolas Masse (Les Sources de Caudalie in Bordeaux).
Dammika Sarath, chef working at Constance Halaveli Maldives, winner of the 2014 edition of Festival Bernard Loiseau
Whatever one’s opinion may be, when I find a minimalist title, such as in this case with Holmström, I wonder what may the journey that the chef has taken with that ingredient be. I do not expect something I already know, something traditional. Indeed, Jacob’s oyster was everything but the sole oyster. And it was so good.
You need to be very brave to use a Belon (but also the oysters from the waters in the region of Goteborg and in the south-west of Sweden) because it is so perfect by itself that it would be easy to spoil it. This was not the case in Mauritius and I can’t wait for the European finals of Bocuse d’Or to take place (on May 7-8th, in Stockholm) to be able to dine at Gastrologik, a place where not only there are two chefs, since there’s also Anton Bjuhr, but where, most of all, there’s no menu from which to choose from, only a tasting menu that depends on the daily market offer.
The oyster served by Jacob Holmström, one of the two chefs of Gastrologik Restaurant in Stockholm, during one of the several meal that enlivened Bernard Loiseau Festival in Mauritius
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born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose. blog www.paolomarchi.it instagram instagram.com/oloapmarchi