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10-04-2014

Henderson, a lifetime achievement

British chef Fergus Henderson just won the Lifetime Achievement Award, ahead of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2014, taking place on the 28th of April at the London's Guildhalil. A meat maestro and founding partner of St. John, with several restaurants in London, Henderson has been awarded mainly because of the promotion of nose-to-tail cooking – the use of every part of the animal, which is now practised in many kitchens

30-03-2014

Ninth Festival Loiseau at Belle Mare Plage

Ninth edition from 30th March, at Belle Mare Plage, a resort of Constance group on the island of Mauritius, of the Festival Culinaire Bernard Loiseau, ending Sunday 6th April. Six European young starred chefs and six young chefs of Constance group will cook divided into pairs, one cook from abroad one from here. In the jury, with madame Dominique Loiseau and chef Patrick Bertron, also Identità Golose with Paolo Marchi

25-03-2014

Helena Rizzo best female chef 2014

Helena Rizzo, chef of Maní restaurant in Sao Paolo, Brazil, is the Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef 2014, according to the jury of World's 50Best Restaurant. Rizzo succeeds in the award to glorious colleagues such as Nadia Santini, Bask Elena Arzak and French Anne-Sophie Pic. The paulista chef will be awarded in London on next 28th April, the day when the 50 best restaurant's list will be officially announced

12-03-2014

Berezutskiy best Russian young chef

It's Sergej Berezutskiy from Moscow the best young chef of the year 2014 in his country. The title, awarded today at restaurant White Rabbit in Moscow by an almost entirely Italian jury, will allow the cook to take part to the S.Pellegrino Cooking Cup 2014, scheduled in Venice for next June. Sergej is the twin brother of Ivan, already a name in the panorama of young and creative Russian cuisine

24-02-2014

Nahm at the top of Asia

Bangkok's Nahm has been voted the best restaurant according to the S.Pellegrino Asia's World's 50 Best. The restaurant by chefs Thompson and Polsuk (recently seen at Identità Milano) ensues Tokyo's Narisawa, who ranked second this year. At the 3rd place, an Indian restaurant, Gaggan, based in Bangkok. Hong Kong's Amber ranked 4th and Tokyo's Ryugin 5th. With 17 restaurants out of the 50 China is the most represented country in the list

15-02-2014

Bonci and Cuttaia ready for Omnivore

Paris, France, March 16-18th: the next edition of Omnivore, the "100% jeune cuisine" cooking congress, is ready to start at the Maison de la Mutualité, rue Saint Victor. In between the French chefs, both promising and already successful - from Piège to Toutain; from Pierre Gagnaire to Guillame Monjuré -  the schedule will include two Italians: Pino Cuttaia from Sicily and bread-and-pizza chef Gabriele Bonci from Rome

31-01-2014

Italy-Thailand, a dinner at Trussardi

An important dinner will take place on Sunday February the 9th at Trussardi Alla Scala in Milan: resident chef Luigi Taglienti will host colleagues Dylan Jones and Bo Songvisava of Bo.lan restaurant in Bangkok, for a special meal organized together with Identità Golose. The tasting menu will include 6 dishes at the cost of 150 euro per person. For informations and bookings, alessandrolonghin-ext@trussardi.com, +39.366,6467249 

20-01-2014

Ice-cream: France wins, Italy second

France has just won the sixth edition of Coppa del Mondo di Gelateria, Ice-cream world cup, at Sigep in Rimini. The team's subject, led by Elie Cazaussus and composed by Christophe Bouret, Benoit Lagache, Jean Christophe Vitte and Yazid Ichemrahen was about “Leonardo Da Vinci's universe”. Italy ranked second with Stefano Biasini, Massimo Carnio, Marco Martinelli e Luca Mazzotta. Poland ranked third

03-01-2014

Luigi Nastri heads to Paris

Starting today, Luigi Nastri, always a chef of Settembrini in Rome, is the cook chief of Gazzetta restaurant in Paris. The former chef (and founder) Petter Nillson decided it was time to go back to Stockholm where his family lives. As Scatti di Gusto states, the Roman colony in Paris is now stronger than ever: after Giovanni Passerini at Rino, now it's time for Luigi Nastri

28-12-2013

Eater's best restaurants 2013

Pakta in Barcelona, Amass and Bror in Copenaghen, Carbone and Mission Cantina in New York, Chengdu Taste in Los Angeles, Edwins in Cleveland, Saltimporten Canteen in Malmö. Sweden, Vin Papillon in Montreal (Canada). These are just a few of many restaurants quoted into the traditional Eater's survey. The renowned food online magazine asked the opinion to several important food journalists and experts

16-12-2013

Gvci, Salicrù chef of the year

Ivan Icra Salicrù of restaurant Ronda in Dubai was nominated chef of the year by Gvci, Gruppo virtuale di cuochi italiani, an award estabilished to celebrate non Italian chefs cooking Italian cuisine abroad. Salicrù will receive a silver plate and will be invited to take part, next January the 17th, to the International Day of Italian Cuisines. The Italian dish they celebrate this year is Spaghetti with tomato and basil

12-12-2013

AltoGusto at Tivoli in Cortina

Dolomiti mountains are hosting AltoGusto, a gastronomic tour dedicated to cucina d'autore in the best restaurants of the area, with menu inspired by the theme "Cinema in the kitchen". On Friday December 13th, you can have dinner at Tivoli in Cortina d'Ampezzo (Belluno) with chef Graziano Prest and Cantine Ferrari, together with an homage to actor Alberto SordiAltoGusto will proceed then with 6 more dinners

02-12-2013

Happy birthday, Identità English

December 2nd 2012 – December 2nd 2013 – the English version of Identità Golose’s website turns one. During the past 365 days, Slawka G. Scarso’s team has translated as many as 410 articles in 28 sections, a great number of pieces to be added to the over 300 portraits of chefs and to the hundreds of recipes that have enriched the website from the start. This important project aims to increase the audience of enthusiasts far beyond the Italian borders

27-11-2013

Casa Vicina's 10th anniversary

Tomorrow night, great dinner at Eataly Lingotto in Turin. They will celebrate the 10th year anniversary of restaurant Casa Vicina - Guido per Eataly, one Michelin star. Together with Claudio and Anna Vicina there will also be chef Peter Brunel. Dinner is 75 euro per person, wines included, 8 courses from Potato cooked in argyle together with rice stems and trout eggs to an Inusual panettone. For bookings +39.011.19506840

19-11-2013

Bottura and the Operazione Parigi

It's called Operazione Parigi and it's a project that is "going to take Italian food culture to the gastronomic capital of the world", with lectures on excellence held at the Italian institute of culture taken by Massimo Bottura, the first promoter, together with 16 important colleagues: Uliassi, Cedroni, Esposito, Perbellini, Cuttaia, Sultano, Oldani, Romito, Alajmo, Cannavacciuolo, Cracco, Scabin, Beck, Crippa, Berton, Cerea and Niederklofer

 

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Identità Golose 10 years (Video Brambilla - Serrani - Cicogna, duration 5'31")

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16-04-2014

Eneko’s elusive charm

The different souls of Atxa’s Azurmendi.
Mixing provocation and reassurance

Eneko Atxa stood out thanks to the success he conquered in very little time. In five years’ time, his Azurmendi, in the small village of Larrabetzu, in Biscay, tel. +34.944.558.866, obtained Michelin’s highest acknowledgment and became a point of reference in the Basque restaurant scene. Also thanks to his attention to eco-friendly beauty
Foto

Eneko Atxa stood out thanks to the success he conquered in very little time. In five years’ time, his Azurmendi, in the small village of Larrabetzu, in Biscay, tel. +34.944.558.866, obtained Michelin’s highest acknowledgment and became a point of reference in the Basque restaurant scene. Also thanks to his attention to eco-friendly beauty


«Exceptional Bloody “Mar”…». «Crazy cocoa notes…». «A harmonic explosion…». I go through my notes, taken during a lunch at Azurmendi, a few weeks ago, cuddled in an eco-friendly, imposing and beautiful restaurant built with crystals, iron, wood and stone. Perhaps also because of a few initial glasses of “42” - txakoli maison aged for six months in French oak barrels, a small production of 2,000 bottles - Eneko Atxa’s profile was still a little out of focus.

Thirty-six years old, from Biscay, he is at least a generation after the other great tri-starred chefs: in fact, he’s become the most awarded young Spanish chef ever, in record time, from 2007 to 2012 when he got the tercera estrella, the first time for a restaurant in the history of Biscay. An early triumph. Today I realise, while analysing my quick notes, that I mostly appreciated his tasty peaks, the harmony emerging from a brave dish that reaches an unexpected balance, that is to say the embers hiding under the ash.

Seaside pil-pil oyster with slightly spiced flowers and anemones in a light tempura
Foto

Seaside pil-pil oyster with slightly spiced flowers and anemones in a light tempura

Indeed, it is difficult to define Atxa because he’s the complex union of various components, he is creative but has also a certain solidity that cuddles elegant women, there’s more than one personality in a certainly complaisant eclecticism without being smug or self-celebrating, as often the case with many tri-starred chefs. It is difficult to define him, he certainly follows the «sensata tercera vía» in the kitchen (again, number 3, the perfect number), as Philippe Regol writes, hitting, once again, the target. Atxa is a young-old man, I say: though not in a negative way. So I correct myself: he’s an already very mature almost-young man. He has arrived but is not resting. He has that dose of pleasantness that allows him to be the perfect starred chef: results have indeed been evident.

Let’s think of an almost next-door neighbour of his, namely Josean Alija, who’s 15 km away, in nearby Bilbao: he’s from 1978, Atxa is one year older, they’re both technicians, both committed in researching the vegetal world, both blessed with a touch of absolute genius, almost two twins separated at birth. The former makes foodies grow enthusiastic with no limits, the latter charms even – and I underline, even – French inspectors who have their noses in the air: perhaps it is also a question of savoir faire.

The largest tasting menu by Atxa manages in caressing all palates. Sometimes it shows off its power, with very decisive flavours, even too decisive: as with the Foie gras with ashes, for instance, or the Veal sweetbreads with a thick sauce paired with biscuits filled with garlic cream and fried chickpeas, all very rich, questionable: the chef wanted to keep hardly banal, almost border line textures. We like the spirit, despite the imperfection.

Bloody \
Foto

Bloody "Mar" is a special Bloody Mary prepared with sea urchin water, to be drunk while eating a biscuit with sea urchin cream and petals

Then there’s something which can reassure the bourgeoisie: as his now famous dish, Revers cooked egg with black truffle (the hot truffle juice cooks the egg yolk in which it is injected) which in our case was paired with pigeon and turnip and scales of truffle.

In those circumstances in which, as often the case, the Axta-style cocktail of components reaches a perfect taste harmony, some memorable, absolute recipes are born: and having mentioned cocktails, the Bloody "Mar", a fantastic Bloody Mary with sea urchin water, can be tasted while nibbling a Biscuit with sea urchin cream and petals. The Anemones in a light tempura, siding the Seaside pil-pil oyster with lightly spicy flowers. There’s form and substance, play, technique, flavour, elegance: a destiny that seems to be already marked, bound to the stars.

Azurmendi
Corredor del txorierri salida nº 25
Larrabetzu (Lezama) Bizkaia
Spain
+34.944.558866
info@azurmendi.biz
Closed on Mondays, from Tuesdays to Thursdays in the evening, on Sundays evenings
Tasting menu only from 135 to 160 euros

Carlo Passera
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