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10-04-2014

Henderson, a lifetime achievement

British chef Fergus Henderson just won the Lifetime Achievement Award, ahead of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2014, taking place on the 28th of April at the London's Guildhalil. A meat maestro and founding partner of St. John, with several restaurants in London, Henderson has been awarded mainly because of the promotion of nose-to-tail cooking – the use of every part of the animal, which is now practised in many kitchens

30-03-2014

Ninth Festival Loiseau at Belle Mare Plage

Ninth edition from 30th March, at Belle Mare Plage, a resort of Constance group on the island of Mauritius, of the Festival Culinaire Bernard Loiseau, ending Sunday 6th April. Six European young starred chefs and six young chefs of Constance group will cook divided into pairs, one cook from abroad one from here. In the jury, with madame Dominique Loiseau and chef Patrick Bertron, also Identità Golose with Paolo Marchi

25-03-2014

Helena Rizzo best female chef 2014

Helena Rizzo, chef of Maní restaurant in Sao Paolo, Brazil, is the Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef 2014, according to the jury of World's 50Best Restaurant. Rizzo succeeds in the award to glorious colleagues such as Nadia Santini, Bask Elena Arzak and French Anne-Sophie Pic. The paulista chef will be awarded in London on next 28th April, the day when the 50 best restaurant's list will be officially announced

12-03-2014

Berezutskiy best Russian young chef

It's Sergej Berezutskiy from Moscow the best young chef of the year 2014 in his country. The title, awarded today at restaurant White Rabbit in Moscow by an almost entirely Italian jury, will allow the cook to take part to the S.Pellegrino Cooking Cup 2014, scheduled in Venice for next June. Sergej is the twin brother of Ivan, already a name in the panorama of young and creative Russian cuisine

24-02-2014

Nahm at the top of Asia

Bangkok's Nahm has been voted the best restaurant according to the S.Pellegrino Asia's World's 50 Best. The restaurant by chefs Thompson and Polsuk (recently seen at Identità Milano) ensues Tokyo's Narisawa, who ranked second this year. At the 3rd place, an Indian restaurant, Gaggan, based in Bangkok. Hong Kong's Amber ranked 4th and Tokyo's Ryugin 5th. With 17 restaurants out of the 50 China is the most represented country in the list

15-02-2014

Bonci and Cuttaia ready for Omnivore

Paris, France, March 16-18th: the next edition of Omnivore, the "100% jeune cuisine" cooking congress, is ready to start at the Maison de la Mutualité, rue Saint Victor. In between the French chefs, both promising and already successful - from Piège to Toutain; from Pierre Gagnaire to Guillame Monjuré -  the schedule will include two Italians: Pino Cuttaia from Sicily and bread-and-pizza chef Gabriele Bonci from Rome

31-01-2014

Italy-Thailand, a dinner at Trussardi

An important dinner will take place on Sunday February the 9th at Trussardi Alla Scala in Milan: resident chef Luigi Taglienti will host colleagues Dylan Jones and Bo Songvisava of Bo.lan restaurant in Bangkok, for a special meal organized together with Identità Golose. The tasting menu will include 6 dishes at the cost of 150 euro per person. For informations and bookings, alessandrolonghin-ext@trussardi.com, +39.366,6467249 

20-01-2014

Ice-cream: France wins, Italy second

France has just won the sixth edition of Coppa del Mondo di Gelateria, Ice-cream world cup, at Sigep in Rimini. The team's subject, led by Elie Cazaussus and composed by Christophe Bouret, Benoit Lagache, Jean Christophe Vitte and Yazid Ichemrahen was about “Leonardo Da Vinci's universe”. Italy ranked second with Stefano Biasini, Massimo Carnio, Marco Martinelli e Luca Mazzotta. Poland ranked third

03-01-2014

Luigi Nastri heads to Paris

Starting today, Luigi Nastri, always a chef of Settembrini in Rome, is the cook chief of Gazzetta restaurant in Paris. The former chef (and founder) Petter Nillson decided it was time to go back to Stockholm where his family lives. As Scatti di Gusto states, the Roman colony in Paris is now stronger than ever: after Giovanni Passerini at Rino, now it's time for Luigi Nastri

28-12-2013

Eater's best restaurants 2013

Pakta in Barcelona, Amass and Bror in Copenaghen, Carbone and Mission Cantina in New York, Chengdu Taste in Los Angeles, Edwins in Cleveland, Saltimporten Canteen in Malmö. Sweden, Vin Papillon in Montreal (Canada). These are just a few of many restaurants quoted into the traditional Eater's survey. The renowned food online magazine asked the opinion to several important food journalists and experts

16-12-2013

Gvci, Salicrù chef of the year

Ivan Icra Salicrù of restaurant Ronda in Dubai was nominated chef of the year by Gvci, Gruppo virtuale di cuochi italiani, an award estabilished to celebrate non Italian chefs cooking Italian cuisine abroad. Salicrù will receive a silver plate and will be invited to take part, next January the 17th, to the International Day of Italian Cuisines. The Italian dish they celebrate this year is Spaghetti with tomato and basil

12-12-2013

AltoGusto at Tivoli in Cortina

Dolomiti mountains are hosting AltoGusto, a gastronomic tour dedicated to cucina d'autore in the best restaurants of the area, with menu inspired by the theme "Cinema in the kitchen". On Friday December 13th, you can have dinner at Tivoli in Cortina d'Ampezzo (Belluno) with chef Graziano Prest and Cantine Ferrari, together with an homage to actor Alberto SordiAltoGusto will proceed then with 6 more dinners

02-12-2013

Happy birthday, Identità English

December 2nd 2012 – December 2nd 2013 – the English version of Identità Golose’s website turns one. During the past 365 days, Slawka G. Scarso’s team has translated as many as 410 articles in 28 sections, a great number of pieces to be added to the over 300 portraits of chefs and to the hundreds of recipes that have enriched the website from the start. This important project aims to increase the audience of enthusiasts far beyond the Italian borders

27-11-2013

Casa Vicina's 10th anniversary

Tomorrow night, great dinner at Eataly Lingotto in Turin. They will celebrate the 10th year anniversary of restaurant Casa Vicina - Guido per Eataly, one Michelin star. Together with Claudio and Anna Vicina there will also be chef Peter Brunel. Dinner is 75 euro per person, wines included, 8 courses from Potato cooked in argyle together with rice stems and trout eggs to an Inusual panettone. For bookings +39.011.19506840

19-11-2013

Bottura and the Operazione Parigi

It's called Operazione Parigi and it's a project that is "going to take Italian food culture to the gastronomic capital of the world", with lectures on excellence held at the Italian institute of culture taken by Massimo Bottura, the first promoter, together with 16 important colleagues: Uliassi, Cedroni, Esposito, Perbellini, Cuttaia, Sultano, Oldani, Romito, Alajmo, Cannavacciuolo, Cracco, Scabin, Beck, Crippa, Berton, Cerea and Niederklofer

 

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Identità Golose 10 years (Video Brambilla - Serrani - Cicogna, duration 5'31")

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Identità Milano 2014

a tasty intelligence

Pino Cuttaia's "Cuttlefish" egg
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Pino Cuttaia's "Cuttlefish" egg


What do you ask of a chef? To be good. All the rest comes later. A chef needs to be good in studying his menu, good in proposing logical dishes because he’s facing a paying audience, good in doing the maths so as to get some results, not only following his dreams, good in understanding the evolution of taste and seasonality, good in surrounding himself with talented collaborators who will make his work stand out instead of mortifying it, good in admitting his mistakes and correcting them straight away, good in charming those who approach his cuisine and want to taste it but still don’t know if it’s worth it.

This, however, has always been the case. Times change, though. Each time interprets things according to the priority of that particular moment and the next edition of Identità Milano, from February 9th to February 11th at the MiCo – Milano Congressi in Via Gattamelata, will be no less so. We chose “A tasty intelligence” as the theme for the tenth edition because never as in a time of deep economic crisis as this, you need to be intelligent. And when I refer to intelligence, I don’t mean managerial skills or the capacity of seizing the moment and creating something new, a couple of dishes that would help balancing the books, perhaps something more commercial that would please everyone.

Quite the opposite: contemporary chefs need to be intelligent in combining flavours, costs, tastes and the client’s physical pleasure because it should be clear by now that a meal doesn’t finish with the last bite, but with digestion. Which should happen “unnoticed”. A dish cannot be just good, sometimes even excellent, but detached from any reflection on the evermore pressing request of health.

A new intelligence is necessary in the kitchen. One needs the capacity to safeguard memories and tastes, the capacity to use new combinations in order to innovate, to lighten fats and useless presences and highlight raw materials, scents, shapes, creative genius and assertiveness. Guests should leave with the satisfaction of having tasted a wide spectre of aromas, of having appreciated the most perfect textures, happy of being pleased and satisfied, but not heavy and bored. They need to remember a meal because of its qualities, not because it will take them hours to digest it. Even tradition needs to be served in a new way: after all, men and women have been the same for thousands of years and they still desire each other. This should be the case even with food, knowing how to renovate oneself, knowing how to think with intelligence.

Attention though: this is not the triumph of a vegetarian philosophy. A modern chef will be expected to offer health and physical and psychological wellbeing together with the hedonistic pleasure of eating well. Eating everything, even meat and fish but not in an indiscriminate way. Aside from those who really believe in the effectiveness of the vegetarian or vegan lifestyle, and one needs to respect them by avoiding any silly joke, the demand for harmony between man, pleasure and nature is such that health combined with taste will be increasingly important. In the same way as doctors are learning they don’t have to punish someone because they enjoyed themselves by eating or drinking, so restaurateurs are comprehending they cannot knock their guests out with the excesses that are due to ignorance. And in the same way as a doctor learns the importance of pleasure and of taste, so a chef needs to grasp the centrality of digestion and of the functioning of the human body. This is a Tasty Intelligence.

This new theme will illuminate an important edition of the Identità Golose congress, as the 2014 one will be edition number 10. This is a finish line, one would say, except it is not because we don’t feel we haven’t reached the end yet. Those who cross the finish line, relax and don’t work further. We, on the contrary, look forward to 2015 when, among other things, Milan will host the Expo, from May to October. Still, one cannot pretend not to feel something special. It’s a peculiar feeling, a mix of satisfaction, warmth, esteem, pride and even regret because in certain moments one could have done more and better, but these are things you only realise later. There will certainly be no self-celebration, in fact we will pay even more attention to creating a contemporary and concrete programme, with lots of substance and little useless glitter - following our mantra, that is to say taste.

We have always looked for taste, style, pleasure, substance, mouth-watering dishes, always taking care to avoid excesses, saying no to special effects that are an end to themselves – who would be interested in a fine looking yet tasteless and empty dish? But we’re also saying no to those dishes that seem to just narrow-mindedly accumulate ingredients without any taste-logic, just for the sake of feeding while avoiding any sort of reasoning that is tied to quality, just focusing on quantity.

We chose “A tasty intelligence” as our theme because clients are not only containers you need to fill, or chicken to pluck. What is needed is an all-comprising intelligence because health and pleasure start from the kitchen and go together in unison.
 


Paolo Marchi
Creator and curator of Identità Golose
 

Edizione 2014
Grana padano
Acqua Panna
Birra Moretti
Lavazza
Mirafiore
Fipe congresso
Ebnt Congresso
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Expo IG2014 ENG
Comune IG2014
Click here to see the complete list of chefs and protagonists
 
Gastón Acurio
Massimiliano e Raffaele Alajmo
Josean Alija
Corrado Assenza
Enrico Bartolini
Lidia e Joe Bastianich
Heinz Beck
Beniamino Bilali
Angelo Biscotti
Massimo Bottura
Cristina Bowerman
Thierry Bridron
Antonino Cannavacciuolo
Moreno Cedroni
Daniela Cicioni
Luca Pardini, Edoardo Grassi e Marco Civitelli
Christian e Manuel Costardi
Carlo Cracco
Enrico Crippa
Pino Cuttaia
Enrique Dacosta
Gian Pietro e Giorgio Damini
Kobe Desraumaults
Loretta Fanella
Gianluca Fusto
Roberto e Fiorella Ghisolfi
Giuseppe Iannotti
Chumpol Jangprai
Bo Songvisava e Dylan Jones
Jeff Katz
Antonia  Klugmann
Marco Mancini
Christian Milone
Luciano Monosilio
Alessandro Negrini e Fabio Pisani
Beniamino  Nespor ed Eugenio Roncoroni
Norbert Niederkofler
Davide Oldani
Rodrigo Oliveira
Simone Padoan
Giuseppe Palmieri
Pierpaolo Pavan
Franco Pepe
Roberta Pezzella
Paolo Piantoni
Fulvio Pierangelini
Jean-François Piège
Alessandro Pipero
Prin Polsuk
Federica Racinelli
Marco Reitano
Niko Romito
Alessandro  Roscioli
Simone Salvini
Ciro Salvo
Nadia, Antonio e Giovanni Santini
Davide Scabin
Emanuele Scarello
Bruno Scavo
Julia Scavo
Massimo Spigaroli
Silvio Spinelli
Mauro Uliassi
Daniele Usai
Henrik Yde
 
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