Bangkok's Nahm has been voted the best restaurant according to the S.Pellegrino Asia's World's 50 Best. The restaurant by chefs Thompson and Polsuk (recently seen at Identità Milano) ensues Tokyo's Narisawa, who ranked second this year. At the 3rd place, an Indian restaurant, Gaggan, based in Bangkok. Hong Kong's Amber ranked 4th and Tokyo's Ryugin 5th. With 17 restaurants out of the 50 China is the most represented country in the list
Paris, France, March 16-18th: the next edition of Omnivore, the "100% jeune cuisine" cooking congress, is ready to start at the Maison de la Mutualité, rue Saint Victor. In between the French chefs, both promising and already successful - from Piège to Toutain; from Pierre Gagnaire to Guillame Monjuré - the schedule will include two Italians: Pino Cuttaia from Sicily and bread-and-pizza chef Gabriele Bonci from Rome
An important dinner will take place on Sunday February the 9th at Trussardi Alla Scala in Milan: resident chef Luigi Taglienti will host colleagues Dylan Jones and Bo Songvisava of Bo.lan restaurant in Bangkok, for a special meal organized together with Identità Golose. The tasting menu will include 6 dishes at the cost of 150 euro per person. For informations and bookings, firstname.lastname@example.org, +39.366,6467249
France has just won the sixth edition of Coppa del Mondo di Gelateria, Ice-cream world cup, at Sigep in Rimini. The team's subject, led by Elie Cazaussus and composed by Christophe Bouret, Benoit Lagache, Jean Christophe Vitte and Yazid Ichemrahen was about “Leonardo Da Vinci's universe”. Italy ranked second with Stefano Biasini, Massimo Carnio, Marco Martinelli e Luca Mazzotta. Poland ranked third
Starting today, Luigi Nastri, always a chef of Settembrini in Rome, is the cook chief of Gazzetta restaurant in Paris. The former chef (and founder) Petter Nillson decided it was time to go back to Stockholm where his family lives. As Scatti di Gusto states, the Roman colony in Paris is now stronger than ever: after Giovanni Passerini at Rino, now it's time for Luigi Nastri
Pakta in Barcelona, Amass and Bror in Copenaghen, Carbone and Mission Cantina in New York, Chengdu Taste in Los Angeles, Edwins in Cleveland, Saltimporten Canteen in Malmö. Sweden, Vin Papillon in Montreal (Canada). These are just a few of many restaurants quoted into the traditional Eater's survey. The renowned food online magazine asked the opinion to several important food journalists and experts
Ivan Icra Salicrù of restaurant Ronda in Dubai was nominated chef of the year by Gvci, Gruppo virtuale di cuochi italiani, an award estabilished to celebrate non Italian chefs cooking Italian cuisine abroad. Salicrù will receive a silver plate and will be invited to take part, next January the 17th, to the International Day of Italian Cuisines. The Italian dish they celebrate this year is Spaghetti with tomato and basil
Dolomiti mountains are hosting AltoGusto, a gastronomic tour dedicated to cucina d'autore in the best restaurants of the area, with menu inspired by the theme "Cinema in the kitchen". On Friday December 13th, you can have dinner at Tivoli in Cortina d'Ampezzo (Belluno) with chef Graziano Prest and Cantine Ferrari, together with an homage to actor Alberto Sordi. AltoGusto will proceed then with 6 more dinners
December 2nd 2012 – December 2nd 2013 – the English version of Identità Golose’s website turns one. During the past 365 days, Slawka G. Scarso’s team has translated as many as 410 articles in 28 sections, a great number of pieces to be added to the over 300 portraits of chefs and to the hundreds of recipes that have enriched the website from the start. This important project aims to increase the audience of enthusiasts far beyond the Italian borders
Tomorrow night, great dinner at Eataly Lingotto in Turin. They will celebrate the 10th year anniversary of restaurant Casa Vicina - Guido per Eataly, one Michelin star. Together with Claudio and Anna Vicina there will also be chef Peter Brunel. Dinner is 75 euro per person, wines included, 8 courses from Potato cooked in argyle together with rice stems and trout eggs to an Inusual panettone. For bookings +39.011.19506840
It's called Operazione Parigi and it's a project that is "going to take Italian food culture to the gastronomic capital of the world", with lectures on excellence held at the Italian institute of culture taken by Massimo Bottura, the first promoter, together with 16 important colleagues: Uliassi, Cedroni, Esposito, Perbellini, Cuttaia, Sultano, Oldani, Romito, Alajmo, Cannavacciuolo, Cracco, Scabin, Beck, Crippa, Berton, Cerea and Niederklofer
With a dinner cooked by Antonino Cannavacciuolo at Boscareto in Serralunga, we had today at Castello di Grinzane Cavour, near Cuneo, la XIV Asta Mondiale del Tartufo Bianco d'Alba, the Alba white truffle world auction, 11 pieces proposed between Langa and Hong Kong. They collected 274.200 euro in favour of anti-cancer research. A 305 grams truffle will be given to Bill De Blasio, the new New York prime citizen
Andoni Luis Aduriz, chef of restaurant Mugaritz in Erenteria, Bask COuntries, will launch within 2014 in San Sebastian "A restaurant of simple, funny, informal, fresh cuisine", he spoke to newspaper El Pais, "and to be reproduced elsewhere". The same way chosen by several Spanish colleagues such as Paco Roncero with Estado Puro, Quique Dacosta with Vuelve Carolina y Mercatbar, Dani García with Manzanilla and David Muñoz with StreetXo
Next Monday, at 11 am, we'll be launching at Magna Pars Suite in Milan the 7th edition of Guida ai Ristoranti d'autore d'Italia, Europa e Mondo di Identità Golose, with Paolo Marchi as a curator. Some previews: the total number of restaurant reviews is 672, distributed into 30 countries, from Italy to Thailand. More than a hundred authors, including some important chefs. Prefaces are by Oscar Farinetti and Carlo Cracco
A Mountain Gourmet Ski Experience to be held into different mountain sites around Courmayeur (Aosta) from Sunday February the 2nd to Wednesday the 5th together with Heston Blumenthal, Sat Bains and Marcus Wareing, that is 4 gourmet dinners signed by 3 of the greatest British chefs. Info at email@example.com e +44.(0)20.73719111
Identità Milano, tenth edition. (Video IWCA Suisse duration: 7'15'')
What do you ask of a chef? To be good. All the rest comes later. A chef needs to be good in studying his menu, good in proposing logical dishes because he’s facing a paying audience, good in doing the maths so as to get some results, not only following his dreams, good in understanding the evolution of taste and seasonality, good in surrounding himself with talented collaborators who will make his work stand out instead of mortifying it, good in admitting his mistakes and correcting them straight away, good in charming those who approach his cuisine and want to taste it but still don’t know if it’s worth it.
This, however, has always been the case. Times change, though. Each time interprets things according to the priority of that particular moment and the next edition of Identità Milano, from February 9th to February 11th at the MiCo – Milano Congressi in Via Gattamelata, will be no less so. We chose “A tasty intelligence” as the theme for the tenth edition because never as in a time of deep economic crisis as this, you need to be intelligent. And when I refer to intelligence, I don’t mean managerial skills or the capacity of seizing the moment and creating something new, a couple of dishes that would help balancing the books, perhaps something more commercial that would please everyone.
Quite the opposite: contemporary chefs need to be intelligent in combining flavours, costs, tastes and the client’s physical pleasure because it should be clear by now that a meal doesn’t finish with the last bite, but with digestion. Which should happen “unnoticed”. A dish cannot be just good, sometimes even excellent, but detached from any reflection on the evermore pressing request of health.
A new intelligence is necessary in the kitchen. One needs the capacity to safeguard memories and tastes, the capacity to use new combinations in order to innovate, to lighten fats and useless presences and highlight raw materials, scents, shapes, creative genius and assertiveness. Guests should leave with the satisfaction of having tasted a wide spectre of aromas, of having appreciated the most perfect textures, happy of being pleased and satisfied, but not heavy and bored. They need to remember a meal because of its qualities, not because it will take them hours to digest it. Even tradition needs to be served in a new way: after all, men and women have been the same for thousands of years and they still desire each other. This should be the case even with food, knowing how to renovate oneself, knowing how to think with intelligence.
Attention though: this is not the triumph of a vegetarian philosophy. A modern chef will be expected to offer health and physical and psychological wellbeing together with the hedonistic pleasure of eating well. Eating everything, even meat and fish but not in an indiscriminate way. Aside from those who really believe in the effectiveness of the vegetarian or vegan lifestyle, and one needs to respect them by avoiding any silly joke, the demand for harmony between man, pleasure and nature is such that health combined with taste will be increasingly important. In the same way as doctors are learning they don’t have to punish someone because they enjoyed themselves by eating or drinking, so restaurateurs are comprehending they cannot knock their guests out with the excesses that are due to ignorance. And in the same way as a doctor learns the importance of pleasure and of taste, so a chef needs to grasp the centrality of digestion and of the functioning of the human body. This is a Tasty Intelligence.
This new theme will illuminate an important edition of the Identità Golose congress, as the 2014 one will be edition number 10. This is a finish line, one would say, except it is not because we don’t feel we haven’t reached the end yet. Those who cross the finish line, relax and don’t work further. We, on the contrary, look forward to 2015 when, among other things, Milan will host the Expo, from May to October. Still, one cannot pretend not to feel something special. It’s a peculiar feeling, a mix of satisfaction, warmth, esteem, pride and even regret because in certain moments one could have done more and better, but these are things you only realise later. There will certainly be no self-celebration, in fact we will pay even more attention to creating a contemporary and concrete programme, with lots of substance and little useless glitter - following our mantra, that is to say taste.
We have always looked for taste, style, pleasure, substance, mouth-watering dishes, always taking care to avoid excesses, saying no to special effects that are an end to themselves – who would be interested in a fine looking yet tasteless and empty dish? But we’re also saying no to those dishes that seem to just narrow-mindedly accumulate ingredients without any taste-logic, just for the sake of feeding while avoiding any sort of reasoning that is tied to quality, just focusing on quantity.
We chose “A tasty intelligence” as our theme because clients are not only containers you need to fill, or chicken to pluck. What is needed is an all-comprising intelligence because health and pleasure start from the kitchen and go together in unison.
Creator and curator of Identità Golose
| published on 22-07-2013 in 2014 PRESENTATION