Dall'Italia

Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose


Welcome back, Don Alfonso: what has changed and what will remain the same

After a year of work to implement a system of integral ecology, the historic restaurant in Sant'Agata dei due Golfi reopens: the Iaccarino family's green revolution, from the foundations to a cuisine that keeps charming

In the centre, Alfonso Iaccarino and, next to him,

In the centre, Alfonso Iaccarino and, next to him, his sons - the future of the Don Alfonso 1890 restaurant in Sant'Agata dei Due Golfi, Naples: left, Ernesto, executive chef and, right, Mario, dining room manager. Photo by Paola Di Capua

At Enrico Crippa's Piazza Duomo, a ballet of dishes and a symphony of taste

‘This story starts at the end, or rather it starts from a sentence uttered at the end of a lunch of the highest level...’: our report from the three-starred restaurant in Alba, with the help not only of the chef but also of Davide Franco and Jacopo Dosio

Peter Brunel dedicates an entire menu to Gabriele D'Annunzio (who was also a gourmet)

For some time now, the chef from Trentino has been reinterpreting D’Annunzio’s food obsessions: cannelloni, boiled eggs, farmyard animals, sandwiches...

Antonia Klugmann: 'Fine dining has never had such a large audience'

THE DEBATE ON FINE DINING - The chef from Trieste rejects the hypothesis of a crisis in fine dining. And she adds: 'The idea of the restaurant-spaceship, detached from the context, will function less and less'.

Antonia Klugmann: 29th of January, at her lecture

Antonia Klugmann: 29th of January, at her lecture at Identità Milano 2023 (photo Brambilla-Serrani)

Chiara Pavan and Francesco Brutto: compatibility between economic and environmental (and human) sustainability

DEBATE ON FINE DINING - The two chefs of Venissa talk about their experience and approach to fine dining. And they explain: if you want to respect the environment and the wellbeing of employees, fine dining is the most effective model

In praise of the “scarpetta”: Chicco Cerea and the changing haute cuisine (ah, check the rubbish bins!)

DEBATE ON THE SIGNATURE CUISINE - It is no longer time for formalities, cuisine (any cuisine) only works if it gives emotions and empathy. Plus, the management must be wise: for example, checking that there is not too much waste...

PACCHERI ALLA VITTORIO AND THE SCARPETTA (SCOOPING

PACCHERI ALLA VITTORIO AND THE SCARPETTA (SCOOPING THE SAUCE) - 'There are still customers who are almost intimidated at the end, some shyly asking: "But can we scoop the sauce? Really? Is that allowed?' Of course it is!" says Chicco Cerea

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