24-03-2019
Carlo Cracco and sous chef Luca Sacchi, opening day 2 at Identità Milano (photo Brambilla/Serrani)
Day 2 at Identità Milano starts with a lesson from Carlo Cracco, who has participated in 14 editions out of 15. With him, on stage, his dauphin Luca Sacchi and a brigade of 12 people: «It’s my way of thanking them for their efforts since we opened in Galleria, little over one year ago». This is the premise of a lesson strongly based on technique, always a typical feature of the chef from Vicenza. The focus is on three recipes, one after the other. KIDNEY AND OYSTER The pairing reminds us of the days of Le Fooding, a cult event that took place in 2010: on that occasion Cracco presented these two elements together for the first time. They were raw. This was «also because», he recalls, «there was no kitchen in that place». But the obsession to explore that pairing remained. «There’s no end to a dish», he said, «in fact, a dish can always improve». Off he goes with the preparation. The kidney is deprived of its fat, then gently seared for a minute, adding rosemary, sage, garlic. Once seasoned, it’s cooked sans vide with its liquids for 60 minutes at 55/58°C. It’s then cooled down. «We love kidney», Cracco and Sacchi say, «because it’s very versatile, in terms of cooking and pairings».
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt