24-09-2021
Among the different sections of the Identità Milano congress, the day dedicated to dining room, hospitality and service, to the crucial work of waiters, maîtres and sommeliers is one of the most important ones. And of course it had to take place also in the 16th edition, which is coming up at the end of the week: the event will take place from the 25th to the 27th of September 2021 at MiCo in Milan, the edition having as its fil rouge the theme Building a New Future: Work. And in view of this theme too we can say it's even more important now to speak of those who work in the dining room, who welcome clients and interpret their desires, needs, and feelings.
Thoughts we find in the words of the creator and curator of Identità Golose Paolo Marchi: «I'm not sure when we started to talk of a “Dining room emergency”, years and years ago, perhaps ever since cooks became chefs and waiters remained waiters, more and more overshadowed by the success of the kitchen. I remember when, in the mid Zero years, Moreno Cedroni, speaking for the JRE Italia, promoted in one of the editions of Squisito in San Patrignano a very ambitious project: finding a new word to define those who work in the dining room and for sure are not just machines serving dishes. He had no success. For sure, there was no D’Annunzio among us, nor was there a Gianni Brera, who were formidable in their creating new words. You need creativity, culture, and that sudden sparkle in your head that has you pronounce something new, that is not however so perfect that it may seem like you found it in a book.
This time too we'll have a day entirely dedicated to service, which was penalised during the pandemic even more than the food itself. I'm afraid many restaurateurs and entrepreneurs often focused on the kitchen “because you can always find someone who can serve the dishes”. And now we must rebuild on rubble. We at Identità are giving and will always give our contribution. Never stop addressing the problem».
Identità di Sala 2021 will take place on Sunday 26th September, from 10.30 am in Sala Gialla 2-3. And this time it will include seven lessons, each one on a different aspect of service and hospitality.
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Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
by
This article is curated by Identità Golose, the publication that organises the international fine dining congress, publishes website www.identitagolose.com and the online Guida Identità Golose, on top of curating many other events in Italy and abroad
Earl Grey tea cream millefeuille, magdalenas ice cream, caramelised butter tiles and old-book flavoured rice paper: the extraordinary dessert designed by Jordi Roca at El Celler de Can Roca, in Girona, Catalonia
Josep Roca and Alessandro Tomberli participated in the 16th edition of Identità Milano, within Identità di Sala: here with the classic photo with host Federico De Cesare Viola (all photos from Brambilla Serrani)
Riccardo Camanini at Identità Milano 2021. All photos from Brambilla-Serrani