09-09-2017
Chef Alessandro Martellini
The warmth of Maremma and a character as strong as the rocks of the Dolomites... The play of contrasts attracting each other is immediately clear in Alessandro Martellini, 33, chef at hotel Tyrol in Selva Gardena, in the shade of Sassolungo. He grew up surrounded by aromas, colours and flavours and learnt to transform them into culinary art, following ancient traditions. «Real creativity – he points out – is not something to be archived, but it must improve». He looks younger than he is, but his Tuscan accent was the background to a long career, that started when he was still a child.
A view of Selva di val Gardena
Hotel Tyrol
Martellini with another Tuscan, Enrico Bartolini
He’s young of age but already has significant experience at Il Pellicano in Porto Ercole, in the days of Antonio Guida, and at Villa Feltrinelli in Gargnano with Stefano Baiocco, as well as Enrico Crippa. «I made experiments, proposed ideas – he recalls – Each one of them taught me something, in total synergy with my teacher: nature. I follow nature in every ingredient and represent it in my dishes. Zero kilometre is not a trend, it’s my philosophy. I know where every ingredient comes from, I know each producer. Freshness is an unquestionable requirement, every day. This is also why my menus are never “automatic”. They adapt not just to seasonality, but to daily availability too».
Gently cooked veal tongue with anchovies from the Sea of Cantabria, burrata from Andria and tomato water
Tyrol opened the doors of its restaurant reserving an intimate stube surrounded by wood even to those who don’t stay at the hotel, but want to try high quality dining. In Val Gardena this is a rare offer. «Clients’ palates – says the chef – help me find the best combination. The real difficulty is “adjusting” the dish, balancing the flavours so that you can identify each one. One may prevail, but without being overpowering. It also helps me find the courage to try some pairings that are… delicately brave».
Risotto Carnaroli “Ecorì”, with sea snails, mixed with mugo pine and mountain butter from Maso Vallin
Or the delicate Risotto Carnaroli “Ecorì”, with sea snails, mixed with mugo pine and mountain butter from Maso Vallin or Suckling pig cooked at low temperature with apple and mustard , dandelion and cauliflower cream; and also Roast lamb from Val di Funes with mashed potatoes and fried chards.
Vita Health, a dessert made with a reduction of green celery, aloe gelatine, biscuit, semifreddo with almonds from Noto and fennel sorbet
Hotel Tyrol Strada Puez 12, Selva Gardena (Bolzano) Tel. +39 0471 774100 www.tyrolhotel.it
Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose
by
A professional journalist, she was born in a good year for wine. She has worked in every field, from sports to politics, because following your curiosity is the best way not to bore and get bored. She has no allergy or food bias, so she'll taste everything. If you want to maker her happy, read her book of illustrated stories, Il tempo di uno sguardo