02-01-2019
Paolo Lopriore and Gualtiero Marchesi
On December 26th 2017, Gualtiero Marchesi, the Maestro of Italian cuisine, passed away. One year later, we asked his favourite pupil Paolo Lopriore to tell us about his heritage, giving us a portrait that would recall his memory. Here’s what he said
One year without Gualtiero Marchesi. One year that flew by, with his image still strong... But I’m not surprised to feel he’s still beside me: I never thought he would be forgotten. Marchesi left us so much knowledge, that it’s as if he were still alive, as if he were still here with us.
The garland sent by his old pupils for his funeral
1. Being a cook is a profession, or better still it is a service, a ministerium.
2. The uniform, which needs to be candid, indicates his essential characteristics: honesty, cleanliness, respect.
3. The law of the cook is the recipe of which he is the perpetrator, reminding that any good execution requires some interpretation, which needs to be carefully dosed, not too much nor too little, and introduced with respectful discretion. Composers are a level above.
4. Three figures represent the different levels of experience and knowledge: executor, interpreter and composer. In order to reach these goals, the cook has to master the techniques and must gain experience in all the stations: starters, first courses, meat, fish and pastry, even though later he will decided to work in the best possible way in one of these.
5. One important element to enrich one’s gastronomic experiences is certainly understanding the places: water, earth, air, which preserve the memory of a territory giving substance and flavour to fruits and animals; inhabitants and climate, which they all need to face, inevitably.
6. The study of the food culture of other countries can contribute in forming a wider knowledge of the culinary art and its productions with different elements and content.
7. The skill of a cook is based on two pillars: understanding raw materials and the ways to process them, respecting their nature.
8. Technical solutions and virtuosos require technical and material knowledge, in terms of conception and execution. Technique is the appropriate, controlled and non-destructive use of the most suitable tools for the process one is conducting, without killing the raw materials.
9. With every preparation, a chef must know perfectly well what it is right to do: the cooking methods and timings, the exact temperature and, when necessary, the duration of the stabilization, as even rest is an important part of the procedure, just like a pause or silence in music partition. The final presentation depends on the choice of the most suitable container.
10. One of the tasks that do honour to the good cook is spreading and incrementing gastronomic culture, both teaching to eat well and in the correct way the food offered on the table, and training young people and passing the baton to those who deserve it, introducing them to gastronomic culture, which, when it is really the case, is an experience full of awareness, a research for constant enhancement and adaptation to life.
Paolo Lopriore, Gualtiero Marchesi and Paolo Marchi at Identità Milano
Marchesi at Alma
Marchesi with his three most famous pupils: Carlo Cracco, Enrico Crippa and Paolo Lopriore. Matteo Baronetto is the last to the right
Marchesi’s famous Raviolo aperto, a decomposition between raviolo and lasagna
Instead, we must follow the road we have already taken, that of professionalism. And then we should all develop our style in the way we think best. In his view, a cook does not depend on an idea or gastronomic ideology, he has freedom of thought and creativity. But he also pointed out the elements that define a cook’s values. They’re in his decalogue and these are the values we want to teach our students. We’re gradually managing. This is the lesson I hold dearest.
These concepts have been pillars in his life. A dish that I believe perfectly sums up his essence comes to mind: Sette penne, sette asparagi, venti grammi di tartufo nero. In this dish he gave value to pasta, that is to say Italy, of which pasta is an offspring and emblem, matching it with something precious. It was perhaps the first time such different elements were placed on the same level: a poor, everyday ingredient, and a rich one, even though he always said that in those days truffles were not that expensive.
Penne, asparagus and truffle by Gualtiero Marchesi. In the beginning, there were only seven penne...
One year after his death, I don’t feel I have any anniversary to celebrate, because he’s with me every day, in my memories. But I would like to create something on this day, December 26th, Saint Stephen’s; I’d like to present an idea that would be a homage to Marchesi and worthy of becoming a part of Italian tradition. And this too was in fact suggested by himself, who loved a double panettone. A cake, of course: with double candies, and smaller in size. A smaller panettone, but richer than the original one. Perfect for Saint Stephen’s (who is also the patron saint of my hometown, Appiano Gentile): a little is enough, there are no big meals that day, it’s even perfect for travelling... I think it could be a good idea: this year I haven’t managed, I hope to make it next year, with the help of the school.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
ALSO ON GUALTIERO MARCHESI: Farewell to Gualtiero Marchesi, the Maestro of Italian cuisine passed away by Carlo Passera Marchesi, l'omaggio dei cuochi by Gabriele Zanatta Cracco e quella cena da Marchesi nell'85 by Paolo Marchi Creating means not copying by Paolo Marchi My friend Gualtiero Marchesi – The first time at Bonvesin de la Riva... by Toni Sarcina Il mio amico Gualtiero Marchesi - Altopalato e la gran disputa sulle orecchiette by Toni Sarcina Il Maestro e gli allievi: Oldani, Cracco, Lopriore, Crippa, Canzian... by Toni Sarcina Eugenio Medagliani: il mio addio al caro Gualtiero by Eugenio Medagliani The post-Marchesi phase has already began by Paolo Marchi Dove mangiava Gualtiero Marchesi by Carlo Passera Marchesi’s 85 candles by Carlo Passera L'umanesimo scientifico di Gualtiero Marchesi by Giovanni Leone L'ultimo saluto a Gualtiero Marchesi by Carlo Passera Double interview with Marchesi-Santin by Carlo Passera Amarcord: quella volta che con Marchesi facemmo l'Europa a Tavola by Toni Sarcina Tutti gli allievi del Maestro
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by
born in Como in 1973, after catering school he met Gualtiero Marchesi: a collaboration was born that continued over the years. Other important experiences: Enoteca Pinchiorri, Bagatelle in Oslo, Ledoyen and Troisgros in France. From 2002 to 2012 he was at Certosa di Maggiano’s Il Canto, in April 2014 at Kitchen in the Grand Hotel in Como. Then he spent one year in Milan at Tre Cristi and since the summer of 2016 he’s at Il Portico, in his hometown Appiano Gentile