Buongustaio for Africa

Should you ask Paola Bertini which is the most important ingredient in her recipes, her reply would be only one: love. Seasoned with a visceral passion for cooking. These two components are sustained by a structure that is strongly anchored to the tradition of Bergamo, genetically handed over by her grandmother, who raised 8 children, and by her mother who every Sunday illustrates the ancient flavours of her territory to 14 palates.

Of course, this would have the wretched flavour of rhetoric were Paola, against any modern logic, not to put all her sauces and all her efforts and talents to the service of others. Her project is born out of the awareness that life has given her a lot, in fact even more than that, and out of her need to return part of what she has received. Her husband too, an art director, presides a non profit organisation and, making the most of his passion and competence for vintage cars (to which he has dedicated books and magazines) he creates water wells and other projects in Africa. Paola, on the other hand, had a strong desire to honour the memory of her father with a water well that would be the exclusive result of her talents. Her husband’s non-profit organization, however, didn’t allow her to put to use the recipes she has been collecting since she was a child so in 2009 she creates ilbuongustaio, an association authorised to supply food and drinks.

The idea is simple: sharing a nice house with many friends-members who make a reservation, dine and then pay a prearranged price. The earnings, after subtracting only the cost of the food (all other expenses and the manpower are offered by the family) go to finance these projects in Africa. Since then, thanks to Paola’s cuisine, with the only help of her daughters Monica and Federica, of mother Mariarosa, husband Gigi and nephew Luca, they have already created six water wells in Niger and one in Zambia. They have rebuilt a kindergarten in Ethiopia and as of two year’s ago they’re providing food and education to over 250 children. Paola has now a project to create five more wells in Niger and one in Brazil, in collaboration with friend and showman Enrico Bertolino. All these projects are managed personally and created by local people. All this is documented with videos and rigorous and detailed accounting records.

Meanwhile, following the invisible hand leading her, Paola becomes a personal-chef. She also prepares take-away dinners and offers catering services and collaborates with website Ricetta blog. Her cuisine, founded on a healthy regional cuisine, based on products of the highest quality, preferably national and as little processed as possible, thus becomes a place for constant research. This is helped by many friends who are masters in Italian cuisine, first of all Sergio Mei, who’s in charge of the kitchen staff at the Four Seasons in Milan, and has appreciated and supported Paola’s projects right from the start.

This, however, is still not enough. There’s a new location now, dedicated to the members of the association. It’s in a beautiful 19th century Lombard palace, with two dining rooms, two kitchens, a billiard room, one dedicated to music and board games, one where it is possible to taste essences and excellent beers, enjoy Cuban cigars and soft music, a few rooms for the bed&breakfast, a delightful and reserved outdoor garden and a summer terrace, all this in the centre of a village just outside Milan.