Destination Cinque Terre / 2

(see part one)

At this point we enter the historical centre, which can boast some remarkable places: Belvedere (piazza Garibaldi 38, Monterosso, +39.0187.817033), under the railway bridges has little charm but lots of substance and it is a favourite among locals who come here for their Fried silver scabbard fish, Seafood soup or Fish ravioli; then there’s Trattoria da Oscar (via Vittorio Emanuele 67, Monterosso, +39.339.4628739), small, perfect for Mixed fried seafood – also to take away – and for the Stuffed vegetables, always few and too often sold out.

The last address, is a great local classic, namely Ciak-La Lampara, in the square; it is large, with an open view cooking station and a service that has been tested over the years and it has a not-to-be-missed Risotto with squid ink. The evening in Monterosso ends in the small Matteotti square where you can go at Enoteca da Eliseo (piazza Matteotti 3, Monterosso, +39.0187.817308) and sit outside and chat until late, or even go there earlier, for an aperitif with a glass of Cinque Terre doc white wine to match with the farinata that you can buy at focacceria Il Frantoio (via Gioberti 1, Monterosso, +39.0187.818333).

The day can end in the garden of one of these two new resorts; the first, La Casa di Andrea in the historic centre, is a relais that serves breakfast, surrounded by a well-tended garden; the second is L’Uliveto nel Parco, an agritourism on the hills of Fegina where, not just the guests but only upon reservation, one can dine with good, homemade dishes.

From Monterosso to Vernazza the more sporty people arrive after a 90 minutes’ walk, the lazier ones by train, the most romantic on boat, starting from the dock in Monterosso, on Angelo’s fish boat: his wife Paola, an American with a great passion for cooking, will prepare a rich packed lunch or an aperitif. Once you arrive in Vernazza, you can dine at Gianni Franzi, where pesto is really good and the Salted codfish with potato is perfect; here you can also sleep, in one of the few rooms with a beautiful view of the sea. The third stop, the most wearing one, is in Corniglia, the only village of the Cinque Terre that is not by the sea, but on top a hill and can therefore be reached via a steep climb.

From there you continue towards Manarola; after a walk you can look for a secluded place that bestows a beautiful view, namely Trattoria dal Billy, good for tagliolini with squid ink and the always-present anchovies. From Manarola to Riomaggiore, when open, you can get via the Via dell’Amore, or via train, in 5 minutes. You can stop in the most interesting gastronomic destination of the entire area: Cappun Magro in Casa di Marin (via Volastra 19, loc. Groppo, Riomaggiore, +39.0187.920563).

It is hard to reach, located in a hamlet of the village called Groppo. Open only in the evening, it is worth a visit thanks to its Ciuppin fish soup and the not-to-be-missed view of the inland. Just to recall that the Cinque Terre are in fact villages of farmers close to the sea, and that tourists who come here for the seaside hospitality might be disappointed but can leave happier if they expect from these villages a trip in the middle of a still untouched nature.

2. the end