What we like of Lele Usai is his sense of measure, his capacity of growing gradually, always following a clear direction for his cuisine. The latter is based on high quality raw materials and on a creativity that is never self-focused. Lele is a seafood cook.
He’s always worked a stone’s throw away from the sea, now in this small and silent place, with 8 round tables. Here he prepares dishes in which there’s a thick network of philological interpretations overlapping a plot of cosmopolitan influences. The rendition is slender, sometimes thrilling, and always convincing. The dim sum with roasted aubergines, roasted scampi and juice of fennel and lemon balm are delicious.
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