Metamorfosi

Metamorfosi is the kind of place that satisfies the first commandment in a hypothetical list meant for restaurants: thou shall entertain the client. Far away from well-lectured intellectual exercises, the cuisine of Colombian Roy Caceres is straightforward and colourful, an edible storytelling from start to finish.

Substantial, concrete, full of personality and sensual, it doesn’t reach any peak in terms of technique or expertise, but it will capture you emotionally. Its manifesto is the anti-pasta, a jellified fish broth, cut into strips, dehydrated and then rehydrated again, so as to make fake tagliatelle seasoned with a sauce made with “gobbetti” prawns.

Andrea Cuomo

Romano di stanza a Milano, sommelier e giornalista del quotidiano Il Giornale, racconta da anni i sapori delle città in cui vive