Katsuobushi... made with veal
11-09-2015
Giuseppe Iannotti’s veal katsuobushi
Sannio, Japan. From Telese Terme to Tokyo it’s 9,802 kilometres as the crow flies, yet in fact distances seem to get shorter. This is also thanks to cooking, which uses an increasingly global language. Like the one used by Giuseppe Iannotti, of Kresios, and his sous chef Tadashi Takayama to understand each other at once.
Iannotti the other night at Priceless. Next to him, there’s sous chef Tadashi Takayama
«Everything starts when we shared opinions with Tadashi, with whom I’ve begun to study Japanese tradition, to get some ideas to transfer to our cuisine». No cut-and-paste intended, though: «We’re not looking for fusion, we want to acquire techniques and make them our own». Of course: fermentations, smoking, meat and fish preservation techniques are also part of the Italian heritage. Yet Iannotti is looking for a surprising touch, «something never experimented before». Like katsuobushi, but made with meat.
Katsuobushi broth poured over tuna belly
During the rooftop dinner, Iannotti poured this broth over some raw tuna belly wrapped in chards, «a way of recalling the original katsuobushi but also the recipe for veal in tuna sauce. I chose the belly because it is a little fat, so it is perfectly matched by the smoky notes of the broth and the herbaceous tones of the chards», which in this case have the same role of the kombu weeds in dashi.
Iannotti at work with the veal round
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief