What we like of Lele Usai is his sense of measure, his capacity of growing gradually, always following a clear direction for his cuisine. The latter is based on high quality raw materials and on a creativity that is never self-focused. Lele is a seafood cook.
He’s always worked a stone’s throw away from the sea, now in this small and silent place, with 8 round tables. Here he prepares dishes in which there’s a thick network of philological interpretations overlapping a plot of cosmopolitan influences. The rendition is slender, sometimes thrilling, and always convincing. The dim sum with roasted aubergines, roasted scampi and juice of fennel and lemon balm are delicious.
Romano di stanza a Milano, sommelier e giornalista del quotidiano Il Giornale, racconta da anni i sapori delle città in cui vive