It’s great to admire Catia and Mauro Uliassi in a star-filled sky. In Senigallia, they make a very Italian team, far from the common clichés ascribed to those who climb the Michelin guide up to the third star. They say the evaluation is solely based on the dishes, but that’s not true. It’s luxury upon luxury. There are a few exceptions though, and one is here, on the Eastern dock, where things are never unnecessarily over the top. An eclectic and sharp cuisine, a clean cut products-wise as well as in Mauro’s and his entourage’s minds, both in the creation and in the execution. When the dish is ready to reach the guest, it’s Catia’s turn, with a grace that’s worth a thousand French sequins.
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