If happiness at the table comes down to the pleasure you draw from the food, the place and the people, Clandestino has no competition whatsoever. With all due respect for high cuisine as a whole and the other venue owned by Moreno Cedroni – La Madonnina del Pescatore – there really is no place like Clandestino. This small beach dug in the heart of Conero is a little piece of heaven. You will have a raw sea bass for luch, or a fish sandwich paired with a glass of wine for about thirty euros. At dinnertime, they raise the bar: the Teheran is a creamed salt cod with white sesame milk, sweetened mashed potatoes and fermented purple cabbage.
viaggia e mangia per Lonely Planet, Osterie d'Italia, Repubblica e la collana I Cento (EDT). Ha scritto "Dire Fare Mangiare" (ADD), "Cibo di strada" (Mondadori), "Il Gusto delle piccole cose" (Mondadori Electa) e ama andar per trattorie e ristoranti di blasone portandosi dietro una moglie riottosa e due figli onnivori