Michele Biagiola

 Credits Brambilla-Serrani

 Credits Brambilla-Serrani

Experts say cooking creativity is going upstream: from technical exasperation on the plate up to hyperevaluation of the product side by side with farmers, artisans, breeders. This is more than true when speaking about Le Case, an exciting microcosm sitten on 21 hectares of kitchen gardens, woods, aromatic herbs’ beds, wild cattle breedings and stratum lakes for river shrimps and sturgeons, everything “bio” certificated. A passionate, severe and wide experimentation with no comparisons in Italy.

Enough to lift out from a sofa the laziest gourmet. But Case is not a place that flatters right-thinkers and terroiristes since it goes against stereotypes with the quick move of their wild-pigs, escaping gastronomically correct gates towards the widest horizons of great cuisine.
Equally distributed, the credit goes to founders Elvia and Marcello, to lovely maîtress Francesca and chef Michele Biagiola: born 15 km away from the restaurant, he can counterbalance through irony, thoughtfulness and vanguard all the folk temptations that graze the country house.

He resembles Paolo Lopriore, partly bear and partly sly, with creative chaos spreading out of his hands from time to time. Chef at Le Case since 2000, he built a very personal style. And now he became a father. «After the alberghiero school I ran into several stages in France with Marc Veyrat in Megève; in Italy by Leemann and Cammerucci. Leemann’concepts in particular fascinated me, even if Milan’s raw materials are not same as here. Here we are lucky to experiment our products as we watch spontaneous herbs growing, picked up every time we like. Our cuisine always starts from the kitchen garden and always goes back there».
His menu jumps from wild herbs’ lyricism of postmodern spaghetti and popcorn up to the obscurity of dandelion omelet with penne all’arrabbiata ice cream, a confusing parody of a typical Italian recipe contracted by a speedy semantics scheme.

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Alessandra Meldolesi

Umbra di Perugia con residenza a Bologna, è giornalista e scrittrice di cucina. Tra i numeri volumi tradotti e curati, spicca "6, autoritratto della Cucina Italiana d’Avanguardia" per Cucina & Vini