piazza Risorgimento, 4
Japonismes: the Japanese influence on the contemporary cooking has been deep and varied, from the nouvelle cuisine onwards. It found two excellent interpreters in the personalities of Gualtiero Marchesi and Michel Bras, able to design poles away topographies of it. The first one focusing on esthetic and original shapes of food, the second one on a very minimal contemplative naturalism, an exoticism grown in the solitude of the Aubrac, which made of Bras one of the most important chefs of the Twentieth century. Influences which started twisting again in the personality and dishes of a young chef, Enrico Crippa, who brought currents back to their common source, the great tradition of kaiseki cooking.
Born in Brianza 38 years ago, Enrico was struck by cooking on the occasion of a well known stage at Gualtiero Marchesi, after only two years of hotel management school. Full member of the winning team of the Marchesi Boys, which already excited via Bonvesin de la Riva, he then chose to look for new incentives beyond the Alps: it was at that time that he met Christian Willer and Michel Bras, that he defines his “teacher of poetry”. The lessons of nature and ethics start at Rodez’s market and go on in the kitchen, battlefield that the poet from Laguiole never abandoned. They are enough to make Enrico chef of the Albereta, during the happy and very short diarchy of the beginning of this millenium with Paolo Lopriore.
Reality after interpretation: Japan attracts him with the power of a cooking land of plenty. First in Kobe, then in Osaka, he spent three very intense years to spy on the secrets of itasan and absorb a new spirituality. The Japanese habits of modern cooking are brought back to their first intention, regenerated in their contemporaneity, including the remarkable loans from the avant-garde cooking and Ferran Adrià, where Enrico stayed for a stage without undergoing relevant influences.
Since 2003, real and imaginary Orient have been combined in the neutral territory of the Langhe: it is the restaurant Piazza Duomo, where Enrico works as chef with the support of the Ceretto family. He just got the second Michelin. Following the unforgettable teachings of Michel Bras, he spends every morning at the market, looking for the best products of the territory, starting from truffles in their season. A challenge to refinement which finds in Crippa one of the best hand and mind of Italian cooking: “Every dish is a foil stroke”, as Moreno Cedroni says.
Umbra di Perugia con residenza a Bologna, è giornalista e scrittrice di cucina. Tra i numeri volumi tradotti e curati, spicca "6, autoritratto della Cucina Italiana d’Avanguardia" per Cucina & Vini
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Some dishes from the upcoming menu 'Seasonal Things', Piazza Duomo in Alba, 3 Michelin stars and 19th in the World's 50Best 2022 (photo Letizia Cigliutti)