THE BEGINNING – We can say that the true emancipation of artisanal gelato and in its valorisation first began at Identità Golose in 2006. That year Corrado Assenza, patron of Caffè Sicilia in Noto, charmed the visitors of the congress in Milan with his Almond granita, oysters and chilli pepper. «At the time –Paolo Marchi points out – we didn’t fully realise how strong the need to redefine the universe of cones and cups, and of flavours and textures for the restaurants was. Since then, the research on the world of gelato has never stopped». Last week the first edition of Identità di Gelato, in Senigallia. All the photos are from Francesca Brambilla and Serena Serrani