Identità di Pasta

Identità di Pasta 95

As usual, on the eve of the congress, the newsletter related to Identità di pasta is back. Enjoy reading it al dente. Paolo Marchi [...]
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Identità di Pasta 94

Twenty-five years to celebrate the 25th of October, today. It’s the World Pasta Day in the four corners of the planet, it is a day to be lived by being open, sharing one's thoughts without thinking they are the best. Even when they are. The [...]
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Identità di Pasta 93

This newsletter summarises the content of the latest edition of Identità di pasta at the end of January at Identità Milano. Lots of excellent ideas, proposals, thoughts and a common thread relaunched here by Riccardo Felicetti in his co [...]
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Identità di Pasta 92

The lessons at Identità di pasta are never enough. We’ve already celebrated one hundred lessons, up to now, to which we will soon add seven more. The topic is never overcooked. It’s always al dente. Paolo Marchi [...]
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Identità di Pasta 91

There are delicacies that do not come out of their shells, like pizzoccheri from Valtellina, but also Spaghetti all'assassina, an absolute masterpiece, a flagship of Bari. They are not a first course made with leftover ingredients, but pasta cook [...]
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Identità di Pasta 90

In the first piece to follow, Riccardo Felicetti talks of the happy relationship between cooks and pasta producers at a time, like Christmas, that celebrates fresh and filled pasta. But also of the long work that still needs to be done beca [...]
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Identità di Pasta 89

There are many Italian entities in the UNESCO list of immaterial world heritage, and many more are to come: above all, Italian Cuisine in its deepest forms, starting with the one you cook at home, the foundations for osterias and trattorias, restaura [...]
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Identità di Pasta 87

The Time of Responsibility, this is the title that Riccardo Felicetti gave to his opening post in this newsletter fully focused on pasta. It's a strong title, the kind that sticks with you, especially in Italy, a country where blaming o [...]
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Identità di Pasta 86

Luca Cesari, born in Bologna in 1971, curates a blog called and writes about the history of gastronomy for Gambero Rosso. In December last year Il Saggiatore published Storia della pasta in dieci piatti, Dai tortelli [...]
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Identità di Pasta 85

This issue of Identità di Pasta is dedicated to her majesty pasta Carbonara. On Tuesday 6th April we'll celebrate the fifth Carbonara Day, no excuses. As Alessandro Pipero often says, «you can't always ge [...]
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Identità di Pasta 84

I was talking with a screenwriter of commonplaces and we ended up talking of Cortina d’Ampezzo and the Winter Olympics in 2026. It's little under five years to go – but only a couple of months till the 2021 Alpine Ski World Championsh [...]
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Identità di Pasta 83

We didn't do it on purpose to have Identità di Pasta, part of Identità on the road, one month ago, on the same day as the World Pasta Day, which, as per tradition, happens on the 25th of Octob [...]
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Identità di Pasta 82

A series of commitments last week, in Apulia and Salento, lead up to a lunch on Sunday 4th October at Cosimo Russo's restaurant, named after him, in the historic centre of Leverano, in the province of Lecce, tel. +39.375.5351682. O [...]
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Identità di Pasta 81

Many are mourning the loss, at 71, of Giovanni Assante, a magnificent producer of pasta in Gragnano, owner of pastificio Gerardo di Nola. Giovanni had an extraordinary generosity, he was always ready to toss the pasta in the pan, to [...]
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Identità di Pasta 80

Before choosing the recipes for this newsletter, we wondered if, given restaurants are closed and we’re all in quarantine, perhaps we should have a different approach. Perhaps publish recipes more suitable to be made at home, more accessible to [...]
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Identità di Pasta 79

Julius Caesar, in a secluded village on the Alps, was the first to say these words: it’s best to be first in a corner of Gallia, than second in Rome. These words came to my mind while reading the news from Riccardo Felicetti below, ti [...]
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Identità di Pasta 78

The theme of the 2019 World Pasta Day, as illustrated in the following news, is splendid: Al Dente. It’s the blessing/curse of us Italians, because we never seem to fully explain what it means to foreigners. But it’s also d [...]
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Identità di Pasta 77

Identità New York, edition number 10, was many things, one better than the other, what with lessons, the dine around event, tastings and dinners here and there across Manhattan. And there was also time to take a real break and dine at the [...]
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Identità di Pasta 76

Thanks to the efficient work of Gabriele Zanatta, this issue of the newsletter dedicated to pasta has a special value. As usual, it includes excellent and original recipes. However, contrary to previous issues, the eight chefs chosen on thi [...]
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Identità di Pasta 75

With his piece opening this issue of Identità di Pasta, Riccardo Felicetti reminded me of how pasta, basically in all of its shapes, has no part in the history of Milan. Andrea Ribaldone’s Spaghettone Milano is from 2015, [...]
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Identità di Pasta 74

For us organisers, Identità Golose is the Congress with a capital C. First edition in January 2005, 15th, last month. In between, it has grown immensely, so much so that the global programme includes other stories, other paths. [...]
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Identità di Pasta 72

For our first newsletter dedicated to pasta in 2019, we asked 10 journalists, as well as Riccardo Felicetti, what was the best dry pasta dish they have eaten recently - that is to say last year - and we asked the respective authors to give [...]
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Identità di Pasta 71

As the year draws to an end, we thought it would be a good idea to ask the people we awarded in the latest edition of the Guida di Identità Golose to give us a recipe based on dry pasta which, for all sorts of reasons, usually having to d [...]
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Identità di Pasta 70

Back from the Starchefs restaurant congress in Brooklyn, I’m reading a preview of the news in this issue of Identità di Pasta and a thought inspired by the event in New York comes to mind. Over there, the American che [...]
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Identità di Pasta 69

As Matias Perdomo said from the stage of Gastronomika in San Sebastian on Wednesday 10th October, «in Italy a chef, whatever his passport, cannot do without pasta». And then he presented the audience of the 20th edition of the congre [...]
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Identità di Pasta 68

The picture of linguine with clams, almost ready, posted by Riccardo Felicetti on his Instagram account, made me crave some spaghetti of the same kind, a crave I satisfied at Pizzaccia on the beach on Lungomare della Repubblica in Grottamma [...]
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Identità di Pasta 67

A few days ago I finally had lunch at Bistro Aimo e Nadia, in Via Matteo Bandello 14 in Milan, tel. +39.02.48026205, a place of which only good things can be said. It’s hot outside, and cool inside, though you wouldn’t notice at f [...]
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Identità di Pasta 66

I was very happy to read the thoughts of Riccardo Felicetti, as reported in this newsletter. He highlighted a very important detail that’s connected with the theme of Identità Golose 2018. The Human Factor. No matter what the sectio [...]
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Identità di Pasta 65

We often do things without really understanding why. This usually happens because that’s how we’ve always done something, so much so it seems impossible that a different choice can be made. Most of the times this is really the case. Most [...]
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Identità di Pasta 64

On Tuesday the 19th of December I dined at Andrea Berton’s in Milan, which offers the best view you can get after opening in the new neighbourhood of Melchiorre Gioia. I was intrigued by the sequence of the courses. First the perfect Risot [...]
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Identità di Pasta 63

This issue of our pasta newsletter opens with Storie di Pasta, a book by Martina Liverani, the soul of Dispensa. I like the title. It’s essential and conveys a strong sense of story and broadmindedness because there can be stories that are root [...]
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Identità di Pasta 62

Years ago I read a review of a New British restaurant in the heart of London, in the Daily Telegraph. Everything was so-so, a nice mediocrity that would have pleased only future fans of the zero km philosophy: «Nothing special, but how about be [...]
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Identità di Pasta 61

Pasta and pizza. Identità Chicago, which started on Saturday 7th October in the gigantic city on Lake Michigan, presented these two worlds that are a synonym of Italy and that thanks to their very universal character are too often distorted. T [...]
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Identità di Pasta 60

Whenever I’m in Spain, I don’t miss a chance to have Pan con tomate, bread and tomato. I’m crazy about it and I really can’t understand why it’s not popular in Italy. The fact we have bruschetta is not a good answer, bec [...]
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Identità di Pasta 59

Festa a Vico (Equense) 2017 that is to say 400 what with chefs and pastry-chefs, pizzaioli and ice cream makers at work between Sunday 4th and Tuesday 6th June. It was impossible not to find high quality dishes, better if you had a good dose of [...]
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Identità di Pasta 58

Never say never, yet it’s hard to think that we’ll ever tire of dedicating an entire day to pasta at the Milanese edition of Identità Golose. Both because it’s versatile, and because it belongs to the DNA of us Italians. And [...]
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Identità di Pasta 57

I’m proud to give life to Identità di Pasta for the eighth time in a row in Milan. The event, on Sunday the 5th March, will be opened and closed by two Italian cuisine giants, Carlo Cracco and Davide Scabin. I dedicate this gre [...]
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Identità di Pasta 56

Should dry pasta be made with Italian wheat? If good, excellent, yes indeed. But what about mediocre wheat or a production that is not enough for the demand? Simple: you shop abroad. Unfortunately, the plummeting prices have seriously damaged Italian [...]
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Identità di Pasta 55

I’m writing this greeting from the other hemisphere, from Bariloche in Patagonia, where I was invited by the Argentinean minister of tourism José Gustavo Santos. In January he gave life to [...]
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Identità di Pasta 54

First Sarah Grueneberg in Chicago with her “spaghetteria” and the other night a dinner in Milan, at Matteo Aloe’s brand new pizzeria Berberè, in Isola, brought a thought back to my mind, a question I still cannot fully answer: why are there p [...]
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Identità di Pasta 53

The last news in this summery newsletter for 2016 takes us to Milan, between Porta Garibaldi and Piazza della Repubblica where Andrea Berton opened his restaurant while waiting to open on Lake Como too, in September, and double the Dry establishmen [...]
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Identità di Pasta 22

The second news in this newsletter is dedicated to Danny Imbroisi and his pasta carbonara, which the readers of Le Figaro consider the best in Paris. I’m very happy an Italian who knows what is necessary and what must be avoided in terms of carbo [...]
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Identità di Pasta 51

As Carlo Passera finely illustrated on Identità’s website, Davide Oldani was the first Italian chef to cook a dish with a 3D printer. To me it sounds truly unusual and I find it hard to understand the surprising implications of a machine destined [...]
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Identità di Pasta 50

It was a matter of chance that Davide Scabin, the chef opening the twelfth edition of the congress on Sunday morning in the Auditorium, was also the one to close the works on Tuesday evening, 8th M [...]
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Identità di Pasta 49

Yesterday I had a luscious and delicious, precise and intelligent lunch, in a game of balance between lots of tradition and territory, but also the right and brilliant creative additions of patron-chef Antonio Petrone, who has two princesses in the [...]
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Identità di Pasta 48

On Tuesday 8th March, the third and final day of Identità Golose 2016, the Sala Blu 1 will host the day dedicated to Identità di Pasta, with eight speakers. Some will debut at the congress, as with Nicola Fossaceca from Abruzzo who will open the af [...]
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Identità di Pasta 47

The long wave of Expo 2015: in this issue of Identità di Pasta, over two weeks after the end of the World Fair, we finish illustrating the recipes presented during the events we developed together with Pastificio Felicetti from Predazzo in Trentino. [...]
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Identità di Pasta 46

During the second gala dinner at Identità New York, on Friday 2nd October, Davide Scabin reminded me of what was written at Boing’s reception in Seattle: “Given its shape, wing dimension and body weight, a bumblebee could never fly. Yet he doesn [...]
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Identità di Pasta 45

During the first meeting of the Forum della Cucina Italiana, last Tuesday at Cascina Triulza at Expo, when the FoodAct of which you can read here and [...]
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Identità di Pasta 44

As usual, the last field filled in our newsletter is the initial greeting. This is the case this time too, at the end of a Sunday spent in the evening in Polignano, a little south of Bari, presenting [...]
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Identità di Pasta 43

I was interviewed yesterday by Radio Siani, a long and pleasant chat with journalist Marina Alaimo on the subject of Expo. At the end, Marina asked me about my dish from t [...]
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Identità di Pasta 42

In the opening news in this issue of Identità di Pasta, Riccardo Felicetti uses a very true and very beautiful word: sharing, the energetic and happy sharing that dominated on the day dedicated to pasta. I go further by looking at this photo dep [...]
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Identità di Pasta 41

Nine lessons this year, on Tuesday 10th February, to be precise. It has never happened for an event organised inside one of the two blue rooms to have so many, but when there’s an abundance of ideas, it is always difficult to forsake something by p [...]
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Identità di Pasta 40

Last Thursday it was Christmas day, a holiday that we at Identità celebrated with a newsletter dedicated to pasta. Enjoy reading it. Paolo Marchi, edited by Carlo Passera and Gabriele Zanatta [...]
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Identità di Pasta 39

This issue of Identità di Pasta, newsletter number 39, is truly special. There are neither news nor recipes, but a concrete, meaty interview with Riccardo Felicetti, who recently became the world’s president of pasta producers, a dialogue with Ga [...]
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Identità di Pasta 38

I know well that many will be scandalised when reading about the Spaghetti with meatballs I devoured with extreme pleasure a short while ago in New York, but I love full enjoyment, without any labels or flags. I don’t like those who create oppositi [...]
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Identità di Pasta 37

I spent three days in Tokyo discovering the world of Luca Fantin, chef at [...]
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Identità di Pasta 36

Dear User A couple of Sundays ago, on June 22nd to be precise, Pietro Leemann, chef-patron at restaurant Joia in Milan, specialised in natural cuisine, organised the first edition of [...]
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Identità di Pasta 35

There’s no escaping it: during the four days in Paestum for Le Strade della Mozzarella festival as soon as possible, between the morning and the afternoon lessons and the various dinners, when a chef threw spaghetti into boiling water, the tomato s [...]
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Identità di Pasta 28

I’d like to reassure Riccardo Felicetti who in the news below wonders "What could the speakers ever do, next year?”, given the extraordinary quality of the lectures held during Identità di Pasta 2014. The theme being dried pasta. It’s always [...]
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Identità di Pasta 33

I must say that Riccardo Felicetti read my mind and so I urge you to read what he has written in the next news carefully. I can add one thing, when there’s a week to go until the fifth edition of Identità di Pasta: I wasn’t expecting such a succ [...]
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Identità di Pasta 32

In this issue, #32, of our newsletter dedicated to the pasta universe – a pasta bulletin that has being launched for the past 4 years both in Italian and English, th [...]
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Identità di Pasta 31

Riccardo Felicetti is right when he writes, here below, that talking about pasta is never easy, especially durum wheat pasta. It is necessary to underline it, since that one is really ours. Obviously, we are not the only ones making fresh pasta and s [...]
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Identità di Pasta 30

In the first article of this newsletter Riccardo Felicetti reminds us that the World Pasta Day is celebrated in Istanbul today . The pasta-maker from Trentino writes: “There are 130 pasta-factories all over Italy and 400 shapes of pasta”. Here is [...]
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Identità di Pasta 29

I think there is no such month as August during which very few people want to cook. It is the holiday month par excellence, even though generally the husbands still want to be served and the wives would very much like to stop and relax. Chefs from ne [...]
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Identità di Pasta 28

The picture here below, illustrating the first news of this newsletter marking the end of June and the beginning of summer, shows the Fettuccine with avocado, tomatoes and garlic buds first course conceived by [...]
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Identità di Pasta 27

I’m back from a really pleasant edition of Strade della Mozzarella in Paestum and more precisely in the Trabeestate, within the [...]
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Identità di Pasta 26

I will never be grateful enough to Riccardo Felicetti and Davide Scabin for creating, in the exhibiting area of Identità Milano 2013, a pasta eating-house which I could visit only on the occasion of the last supplementary shift [...]
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Identità di Pasta 25

we never end discovering and learning something new. Those who don’t think so are people who surrendered and don’t live on curiosity any more, satisfied with what they have done and known. On Sunday February 10 Identità di Pasta will conf [...]
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Identità di Pasta 24

in the previous number of the newsletter we announced a still partial program of the day Identità di Pasta during the ninth edition of Identità Milano, on Sunday February, 10 2013 to be precise. Still a couple of tesseras were missing [...]
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Identità di Pasta 23

We can create all the most incredible and even unexpected dishes but there are some which are enduring and everlasting. To me, the Pasta alla Carbonara is an absolute dainty and piggish dish, a first course I’m never tired of dreaming and ea [...]
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Identità di Pasta 22

there is nothing to do: when abroad, the visit card of us Italians is pasta. Sure, we are the masters of first courses since they exist almost only in our cuisine after the entrée and before the main dish that in Italy is announced by pasta or ravio [...]
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Identità di Pasta 21

I write here below about the Green Tagliatelle by Christian Milone, but it wasn’t the only pasta first course which struck me when I went for dinner at him and his wife Manuela. There was also the Pasta ai quattro formaggi [...]
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Identità di Pasta 20

When we Italians understand and take for granted that difference is made by work and not catchwords, it will never be too late (and clever). Who cares about ordinary artisan pasta passed off as excellent only because it is mixed with kilos of rhetori [...]
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Identità di Pasta 19

Next month it will be summer, I hope in the concrete too because I’m really longing for authentic dry, sauna hot, with sheer sun burning the asphalt and everybody idling about in the shade. I don’t like this fall-like spring and I hope it says go [...]
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Identità di Pasta 18

The author of the book The geometry of pasta, which I describe at the end of this newsletter, has included in it a couple of articles, one of which is taken from La Repubblica of last January 11. Title: "Fusilli, farfalle, trenette: a m [...]
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Identità di Pasta 18

For the third consecutive time Identità Golose Milano has devoted a full day to pasta, the most Italian of all delicacies, together with pizza. With a great difference: pasta is also a very good home-made food while pizza is not because, even [...]
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Identità di Pasta 16

This was the last Identità di Pasta newsletter of 2011 and Gabriele Zanatta has thought it was a good idea to publish seven greatly appetizing pasta recipes, certainly little tuned into december and january rites, when opportunities t [...]
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Identità di Pasta 15

Being simple is extremely difficult because thousands of things are needed not to fall into banal; clear ideas, knowing what we are talking about, what we expect from a certain situation, what we are driving at, how the present situation is and how [...]
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Identità di Pasta 14

Last Tuesday all the six speakers of Identità London have unintentionally presented a pasta dish and also the Grand Fooding in Mila [...]
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Identità di Pasta 13

seven recipes for a summer under the banner of pasta, seven preparations far from the well known patterns of homemade cooking, seven ways having pasta as central element, the heart of thoughts, tastes, and executions never “killed” by predominant [...]
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Identità di Pasta 12

Identità di Pasta is back with this number full of summer recipes. And prompted by the attitude of Identità Golose in general: trying to look at things from an always new point of view bec [...]
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Identità di Pasta 11

there is no doubt that the Italian dish par excellence is a first course and it cannot be a risotto because, though loved by all, it only represents the North (Milan in particular). What is left is pasta and pizza, the same colours in the best known [...]
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Identità di Pasta 10

an underdone hall the Sala Blu where last Sunday the second edition of Identità di Pasta came back after its debut last year, when we talked a lot about cooking, how to reach the underdone time to drain, amalgamate and add the sauce to the pasta. W [...]
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Identità di Pasta 9

It will be up to Davide Scabin to close Identità di Pasta in two weeks’ time, on Sunday January 30 in the Sala Blu, one year after the success obtained by the s [...]
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Identità di Pasta 8

Pasta, Pizza and Rice, the three giants of Italian cuisine, will be greatly celebrated during Identità Golose 2011. First of all pasta, on Sunday January 30, with a day whi [...]
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Identità di Pasta 7

a long week-end in Tarvisio and Malborghetto for Ein Prosit, which has enabled me to discover how the collaboration between the Fe [...]
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Identità di Pasta 6

one day of two years ago at the Salone del Gusto in Turin – today the opening of the eighth edition - while talking of Italian cuisine in New York City Lidia Bastianich, who represents the It [...]
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Identità di Pasta 5

Obviously there are exceptions, Tuscany for instance doesn’t seem to me much tuned up with underdone pasta and Milan can be better matched to risotto, but however there is no doubt that Italy as a whole is a country with a strong bent for pasta. We [...]
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Identità di Pasta 4

in June, I have spent almost ten days in Shanghai, at the Pavillion Italia of the Chinese Expo, to manage a series of classes and dinners devoted to the best the restaurant industry of Milan can offer today, invited by the Municipality of Milan which [...]
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Identità di Pasta 3

we live on certainties, but what excites us are novelties with their drive of innovation which pushes ourselves forward, in an endless search for new limits, new successes that season until they become traditions to be questioned again. I was thinkin [...]
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Identità di Pasta 2

last week Mario Preve, owner of Riso Gallo, leading company as for rice and risottos, recalled that “every year the average Italian eats 28 kilos of pasta and only 5 of rice”. For many people rice is a noble dish and pasta a common one, and for e [...]
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Identità di Pasta 1

when you give something for granted, whether it is a feeling, a product or a person, you always run the risk of ignoring its changes. It may be movements and slight variations, almost invisible in the short term, but which on the long term appear wit [...]
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