Fresh ricotta for monsieur Genin

«J’ai la chair de poule», says Jacques Genin, and it has nothing to do with the cold. There was a good climate in Paestum, the sun was kissing Le Strade della Mozzarella and gently greeting the speakers, even those coming from afar, such as this 58-year-old pastry chef from Paris of whom Faith Willinger says: «A genius who invented a new language in the sweet world».

Chair de poule, goose pimples, that is. For an aroma, a harmony, an unexpected caress: the one given to the palate by fresh buffalo milk ricotta, Genin enjoys it slowly and with attention, «you cannot do this job without being a gourmand, without tasting» he later said under the spotlight of Le Strade, in the middle of the event organised by Albert Sapere and Barbara Guerra (who had told us about him: «He’s a mad man full of talent. We’re anxious to see what he’ll do with buffalo milk ricotta»).

Anxiety is followed by pleasure, at caseificio Barlotti, 400 buffalos, most of which are female, as one or two males are enough for 50, a young one and an old one «to stimulate competition», says Raffaele Barlotti, the passionate owner guiding us during the visit. A female breeding? Genin is at ease: in his shop-laboratory in Rue de Turenne 133 (he opened a second establishment in Rue de Varenne five months ago) work 35 people, only 4 of whom are men, because «women add elegance, feelings. They make us less brutal. Had I not become a pastry-chef, I would have worked with women’s lingerie». They’re all between 16 and 23, except Sofie, his beloved, 11-year-old daughter, «if I work 15 hours a day, seven days a week, it is for her».

The buffalos’ milk is precious, each produces 8-9 litres per day while a cow reaches 35 litres: Barlotti mixes it with serum to add a little extra velvet to his extraordinary ricotta and hits the target, Genin is in ecstasy. To tell the truth, the dairy producer had already sent him some to Paris, and express (and costly) shipping but the result was not comparable, «already after the journey, after a few days, the effect on the palate is different» says the Parisian chef, who pays lots of attention to these things. In his pastry shop almost nothing is prepared in advance and displayed: only chocolates and little more than that.

All the rest is made on spot, you sit and order just like at the restaurant, and eat at the table, because in Genin’s opinion a few hours are enough to change the taste, extinguish the magic. It’s the only fundamentalism we appreciate, and others agree: “Have you tasted his Paris-Brest? A shock based on simplicity, creaminess, on the crispy puff pastry with hazelnut chips, still soft inside. It goes straight to the palate, admirable!” (Bruno Verjus); “Sitting in the tea room, I hesitate between the legendary lemon and basil cake and the millefoglie pastry with cream added on the spot. Before leaving I always buy a packet of mango sweets. Unique” (says Canabal).

In Paestum using this dream ricotta Genin prepares a Ricotta and beetroot terrine with anise and beetroot sprouts, vinaigrette made with extra virgin olive oil and hazelnuts; then a Choux pastry with ricotta whipped with buffalo milk cream and extra virgin olive oil, covered with a herb icing. Delicately sweet sweets («Mothers always exaggerate»), aromatic, very modern. Mozzarella? «I still haven’t understood it». In the future: «I want to work with these products, I believe cooking means drawing from the best in every country. In Paris they only use ricotta for pizza. It’s a pity, I immediately thought of using it for a cheesecake. I’ll have Paris speak about it ». Merci.