Zanasi-Adrià: the tasting

Congratulations Ferran! «A el. Federico se va convertir en uno de los bullianos mas importantes». Actually one should congratulate Federico, says Ferran Adrià: at last, the greatest gratification has arrived for Federico Zanasi, a chef who, no longer that young – he was born in 1975 – is on the way to conquering a well-deserved fame, thanks to a talent he’s already proven in the past. Zanasi-Adrià make the odd couple at the helm of the kitchen – the latter in front of the stove, the Catalan giving the overall direction – of the new Condividere restaurant created by Lavazza in their new headquarters in Torino (see Adrià-Zanasi: come sarà Condividere, il ristorante nella nuova sede Lavazza). It is signed by Ferran and just opened to the public – as for us, we participated in the preview lunch for the press.

The odd couple, we were saying. Imagined by a great mind who has left us, Bob Noto. He first recommended the young man to Adrià, when the former he was only 40 and was making marvels at Snowflake in Cervinia, after standing out at Moreno Cedroni’s. It took a little over two years to shape the idea and make it real: Bob is no longer with us, but there’s of course a tribute to him in one of the appetizers, Gelato al Parmigiano “Bob Noto”, part of the first part of the menu.

The culinary offer at Condividere is indeed original, interesting, and composite. There are some super classics from elBulli, Liquid olive (you can also enjoy Ferran’s iconic spherified green olive at Tickets in Barcelona, and elsewhere), the Joselito Air-baguette, the Gelato al Parmigiano (gelato made with Parmigiano, in between two wafers made with the same cheese, enriched with lemon marmalade, which was added to the original recipe)… And then, again found among the initial appetizers. For instance, Apri-la-bocca and Cicchetti («It’s good that you haven’t called them tapas, though here the word would have been legitimate nonetheless» pointed out Paolo Marchi). And the delicious Alice tartufata: San Filippo anchovy from the Sea of Cantabria with a double wafer of chicken skin and grissino, plus lots of black summer truffle sprinkled on top. The excellent sommelier Mirko Feroce, previously at Piano 35 inside the Intesa San Paolo building, perfectly matches it with mead, while he otherwise bases his work on an intelligent «99% Italian» wine list, he guarantees. Then there’s the tasty Goffri di farinata (a Piedmontese crossover: a sort of typical Piedmontese waffle with a touch of Liguria given by the chickpea farinata),Tramezzino Mulassano…

The latest recipe depicts the overall tone at Condividere: a synergy of Spain and Italy, halfway between old memories form elBulli and local products. It can surely be fine-tuned, but it already guarantees fun and taste. «The big day is here – said Zanasi at the beginning of the meal – I love this casual format: there are some signature dishesby Ferranat the beginning, but then we serve Italian cuisine». Sometimes very local, with rich and tasty references. Take the above mentioned Tramezzino Mulassano: it’s a clear reference for the people of Torino, «going to café Mulassano in Piazza Castello to taste their sandwiches filled with lobster has always been a classic» explains expert Marco Trabucco at our table. In this case, the bread is replaced by two slices of savoury meringue, in the style of Adrià, and it’s filled with king crab. Or take the Brioche modenese, a tigella filled with cunza (chopped lard, rosemary and garlic, typical of Modena) a hint to Zanasi’s origins, since he was born in Castelfranco Emilia. So much so this is the dish he mentions, when we ask him which one he feels the closest to. Back to Piedmont with Roll of pepper with tuna belly and bottarga, and Tomino elettrico, goat cheese and yogurt with bagnetto rosso; and then Chargrilled langoustine with mousse of bottarga, ending the first series of tastings: the prices here are moderate, ranging from 1.90 euros for the olive, to 7 euros for the tramezzino and the roll.

The first courses continue the embrace between Adrià and Zanasi (or rather their traditions). The rice is in fact a Spanish style arroz seco, or a Catalan sucarrat, with eel and duck broth, plus some powdered, smoked and dried duck, resembling katsuobushi. Then there’s Dum-plin, that is to say Langhe’s agnolotti, but with a Modenese filling of meat sauce. You can eat them basic, al tovagliolo, or seasoned (which we recommend) with an excellent broth made with courgette juice, lovage oil and prosciutto fat. Delicious. Prices range between 16 and 24 euros.

As for the main courses, the Josper-cooked Tongue in salmì with salsa verde, served at the table with a Josper (a small Spanish tool that combines oven and grill. Also used for the Braised tuna cheek) is very convincing with the various portions pierced with a cinnamon stick. The Pluma iberica Joselito, elegantly marinated with cumin and soaked in garum aromatised with herbs (including marjoram) was exceptional. In this case the prices range from 10 euros for the Mackerel with lard, to 30 for the pluma, 50 for the tuna, which however is recommended for 4 people. They serve the dish in the middle of the table so that guests can help themselves: after all, this restaurant is called Condividere [sharing].

The oysters deserve a separate mention: the restaurant also aims to become a place where to enjoy an aperitif with a few nibbles. So they offer five versions of “travelling oysters”: to Pompeii, with lemon and garum; to the French Riviera, with vinegar and tarragon; to Romagna, with melon broth and prosciutto fat; to Piedmont, chargrilled with hazelnut oil; and to Trentino, with “snow” made with yogurt granita, mint and eucalyptus.

The cakes are served in a separate room: Spumone all’italiana, with citrus fruits sorbet, horseradish, extra virgin olive oil and wild herbs; Torta Tropeccienne, super delicious, with Chantilly cream, salted caramel and lemon zest; Frutta ubriaca, pineapple in gin osmosis, strawberries in Campari, melon in Americano Cocchi, plus a white chocolate filled with strawberries, raspberries, vodka and Campari), Mini Magnum al chartreuse, Nuvola di sambuco (marshmallow with elderberry, white sesame, mint and dehydrated strawberry), Cestino tropicale tierra (filled like a pastry with mango, cucumber infusion with cumin, green curry, pineapple and grapefruit)…

We’re in Lavazza’s headquarters, so of course there are some desserts with coffee: Cappuccino meringue with chocolate ganache, or Tappo di sughero, that is to say chocolate ganache with hazelnut and coffee biscuit.

Zanasi: «I’m very happy. I want my dishes to be tasty and characterful». We he learnt from Adrià. He replies with an anecdote: «The first time we met, he asked me four things: about the history of cooking, I remember we talked about Scappi, then he asked me about tomatoes and so on. My answers didn’t satisfy him, however. So he sent me a pile of books: study – he said – Only be researching you’ll understand where you want to go». Zanasi, being talented and tenacious, followed his suggestion.

Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso

Condividere
Centro direzionale Nuvola Lavazza, via Bologna 20A, Torino
tel. +39 011 0897651
condividere.com
Open from Tuesday to Friday only in the evening. Open at lunchtime and in the evening on Saturday and only at lunchtime on Sunday. Closed on Monday