Eleven Italians at Geranium, which is aiming for n.1. The new tasting menu. They will be at Identità Milano

Is there such thing as a perfect cuisine? It's hard to say: not so much because it's always questionable whether you can say this about any restaurant, but because of the concept itself, the idea of "perfection". What is it? What are its features? Yet, and rightly so, the cuisine of Rasmus Kofoed at Geranium in Copenhagen is considered the fine dining offer that more than any other in the world shows an almost extreme tension towards stylistic perfection, towards extreme attention to detail, and rigour. Towards an obsessive sense of aesthetics as a prodrome for the utmost clean flavours; towards a balance in harmony with nature – in food and in life – as if it were an archetype and a paradise lost, to be found once again.

This is not a very Mediterranean model, which is natural, given the latitude: after all we're a little in love even with this excess and for sure we're very much intrigued by creative mistakes, by the spontaneity of the imperfect but invigorating gesture, by the virtuous mistake that generates a new journey or simply a new emotion, not necessarily planned. Yet we have to bow in front of the bursting yet subtle and clean force that oozes from the restaurant in Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, on the 8th floor of the huge building that includes the national stadium of the Danish capital; here even the recent interior restyling becomes functional to the culinary concept: wood, glass (hence light, which is a constant Scandinavian inclination, momentum, and at the same time illusion) and earth (flowers, branches...), that is to say elements that can be connected to the Nordic model and contribute to stimulate this hygge in the guest, that is to say the typically indigenous feeling, a sort of social atmosphere, of sense of comfortableness, of shared welcome. [Elements] that also become a representation of the concept of cuisine itself, as known to those in love with the new menu – which we tasted a few days ago in a sort of preview – which totally bypasses animal proteins that don't come from the sea to focus more and more on vegetables. After all, even Kofoed follows a mainly vegetarian diet.

We were talking about it the other day with Chicco Cerea, who has also just visited them in Copenhagen; his perception is enlightening because it comes from someone for whom "Italian warmth", a smiling embrace as a pillar of the hospitality is a trademark. He starts from a detail, because that's where you can find excellence: «The glass». What was it like? «Elegant, light, thin, aerial, with stratospheric wines. And then the pleasantness of the setting, the luminosity, the view of the park where people went for a walk or did some gymnastics. And then: sitting at a table and touching a tablecloth made with fabric that is like a caress. See, it had been a while since I had this feeling in some restaurants. Of course, there are great technical skills: rigour, precision, elegance. An overall Nordic detachment, but then the service is very careful, it's a dance, and it's warmed up by a strong Italian influence, both in the dining room and in the kitchen».

Chicco mentions an important fact which we have already mentioned. There's plenty of Italy here. Starting from the deputy restaurant manager Mattia Spedicato, born in 1990 in Lecce; sous chef Martina Pistolesi, born in Fermo in 1996; floor manager Giulia Caffiero, born in 1992 in Cagliari (she's also studying juices and extracts for a… different pairing): they are pillars here. But our "colony" at Geranium is also enriched by assistant head sommelier Andrea Sala, born in 1994 in Milan; waitress Nicol Floridi, born in 1994 in Rimini; waiter-sommelier Raffaele Laezza, born in 1997 in Orvieto; cooks Desiré Alfredo, born in 1992 in Rome; Giulia Cocco, born in 1993 in Cagliari; Andrea Silvestri, born in 1997 in Bologna; Daniele D'Ambrosio, born in 1998 in Rome; and Nicolò Rubinato, born in 1995 in Venice. All together, they are 11, out of 33 staff members. One third.

Another proof of our strength, though abroad. A pride. Geranium is number 2 in last year's 50Best. With the rules introduced some time ago, hence with Noma no longer participating, the first place in 2022 is empty. And this makes us think that the first place will remain in Copenhagen.

Final spoiler: Søren Ledet, director at Geranium and co-patron with Kofoed, will be among the international speakers in the next edition of the Identità Milano 2022 congress, from the 21st to the 23rd of April. But the entire programme will only be revealed in the next few days.

Here's what we tasted.

APPETIZERS

Then comes the series of appetizers, which already give a clear idea of the overall experience: of the aesthetics, the style. Many of these are still evolving, like Vegetal Rose "Roi Soleil", a tart of elderberry flowers, goat cheese and löjrom, which we had already tasted and showed a deep, vary fascinating flavour, and is now presented with a yellow turnip in brine, with seaberry, and the same turnip grilled with fried egg yolk. The same tuber returns in the following appetiser, Turnip from Birkemosegård, dehydrated berries and horseradish h: an excellent pairing of sweetness, sapidity and flowery notes.

 

SAVORY SERVINGS

The heart of the dinner dives into the relationship between earth (vegetables) and sea. Celeriac with smoked cod roe and fermented cream of milk with caviar has the potential of a signature dish with some rather bursting milky notes. Turbot and scampi with pine, tarragon and herbs has a more "normal" appearance but is excellent.

SWEETS

Lots of space was also given to the sweets. Cloudberry, pumpkin and white chocolate is very fresh, but also has some toasted notes. Ingrid Marie apples with chokeberries, butter with apples and crispy cinnamon flowers is a sort of bizarre tarte tatin. But it's the best ever tarte tatin.

Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso