Turk - Fatih Tutak opened on the 5th of December 2019, after a few weeks of soft opening, in the Turkish capital, and it’s the most important news in Istanbul and promises to be one of the most interesting news in the global fine dining scene as well. We say this because the project is very ambitious (and well put together); and because Fatih Tutak, born in 1985, is already well-known and esteemed internationally.
Turk represents his return to his hometown, after 15 itinerating years: Singapore, Hong Kong, Tokyo (Nihonryori RyuGin), Copenhagen (Noma), in China he worked in Beijing and Qingdao, and then Bangkok, where in the last two years he stood out as chef at The House of Sathorn, 36th in the 2017 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
We were among the first journalists to meet him in his new restaurant, during the first service, on the first day of opening. He told us: «I want to create a new alphabet for Turkish cuisine. Two centuries ago, people ate different things that became traditional. But things change, today we have more technology, different tools and mentality. Therefore, we can present equally different ideas to make our food more interesting».
And then: «I have worked with great colleagues. I have got closer once again to Turkish cuisine in the recent years, when I was still in Thailand. I now need to create something that would have a deeper meaning for me, drawing inspiration from what surrounds me. This is why it was necessary for me to return: to make Turkish cuisine – or Italian, it applies to everyone – you must be on location. I returned with the expertise I acquired, and the things I have learnt: I want to create a great restaurant here in Istanbul because our cuisine has not yet received the consideration it deserves. I make Turkish food, with Turkish products, based on current techniques».
The establishment has a very metropolitan look, a mix of international contemporary and local style. Every element – both in the kitchen and in the dining room – is made by artisans, even the tableware and the furnishings: only the leather chairs are imported, they come from Italy, «because I think they’re fabulous» (a brand from Pordenone: Midj Initaly).
The food is already excellent, above all, the Tarhana with pine mushrooms and yeast, a thick very refined broth with strong umami notes. But the other dishes are also lovely, like Beetroot, yogurt and thyme; Squid, white beans and squid ink; Ox tongue, lettuce, parsley; From my mum vol. 2 (voluptuous: it’s ravioli with duck thigh); and also Duck, cherries and leek... And all the desserts, not very sweet, very aromatic and finely made. «I’ve been working on this project for over a year. The dream has started. I called it Turk because I don’t want to hide: it’s not a simple name, it creates expectations. It’s ok. I want it to be my country’s signature restaurant».
Tarhana with pine mushrooms and yeast
Ox tongue, lettuce, parsley
Kadaif, hazelnuts, mastic, rice. Kadaif are like very thin spaghetti
The staff is all local, but with international experiences; restaurant manager
Berk Kaymak used to work at
Park Hyatt in Milan, «in the team some have worked with
Bottura, some at
Noma or at
108 in Copenhagen, some at
Ledbury in London,
Inua in Tokyo... It’s an extraordinary team. We want the name
Turk to stand out in the global culinary scene, because I want to do something for Turkish cuisine».
Garfish, coriander, pickles
Bonito, rice, vine leaves, Jerusalem artichoke
Persimmon, lemon verbena, "snow"
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Turk - Fatih Tutak
at Now Bomonti
Cumhuriyet Mahallesi, Silahşör Caddesi, Yeniyol 1, Istanbul
turkft.com
Closed on Monday
Menu with 4 courses of your choice for 390 Turkish liras, around 65 euros
