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Franco Aliberti

Foto Brambilla-Serrani

Foto Brambilla-Serrani

Pastry as a declination of territory, from earth humus up to the symbol of the restaurant himself: the vine leaf. After Alma, Gualtiero Marchesi and Massimiliano Alajmo , Franco Aliberti chose San Patrignano, in Emilia-Romagna region, to lead his world made of colors, flavors and sensations: a game of cross-references, evocations and influences from other places that, since February 2012, would lead him straight to the heart of Massimo Bottura ’s Osteria Francescana. Let’s take for instance his masterpiece, Vendemmia e Caribe, where opposite lands meet on the plate, that becomes a fusion crossroad of exoticism and terroir, with an early sorbet, passion fruit gelée, mango cream, vinasse ciambella (=shape-round cake) and her foam, a rejoice made of freshness and acidities.

But pastry is also a color, Giallo, yellow, a composition made of ginger ice-cream, caramelized sheets of pastry, saffron foam and pumpkin marmalade: the powerful and solar color at sight is fully felt when eaten too. And let’s not talk about the recreational and evocative dimension (Massimiliano Alajmo…) of the dessert: Ricordi d’Infanzia is a sort of petit patisserie sailing on a liquid nitrogen smoking train that takes us to forgotten sweet memoirs. Candyfloss, doughnut, bread, sugar and butter, snowdrop, candy cherry, nutella popping biscuits… in short, a divertissement made of sensations who link as a flashback to the sphere of our very tasty and amusing childhood’s flavors. As he learned from school, everything is so precise but, in the meantime, we are not facing steady pastry examples but open works, where the corollary perfectly fits the central object but is also allowed to live on his own.

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Identità Milano


by

Andrea Grignaffini

born in Parma in 1963, he directs the Guida Vini dell'Espresso and is the author of various books, the latest of which is "Il Cuoco universale. La cultura del piatto" (Marsilio)