Denis Lovatel

"The foundations on which my idea of pizza is based are twofold: identity, because when a pizzaiolo manages to give his pizza a personal and distinctive imprint, representing the territory in which he works, he is recognised for his work and his intelligence. And then sustainability: I am a mountain man, so I think the relationship with the environment and with nature is crucial. In the world of pizza, unfortunately there is still not enough thought on sustainability: this would be essential, because we sell millions and millions of pizzas, we reach a very large public. Concrete actions in this sense would have a powerful impact”.

A few years ago, Denis Lovatel said these words at Identità Golose and they are valid to this day. They perfectly sum up the truest and most important characteristics of his work and, therefore, of his (extraordinary) pizza. Lovatel started out from the family pizzeria, Da Ezio in Alano di Piave (Belluno), named after his father from whom he inherited the passion for this trade. Yet it was thanks to the talent and determination of Denis that the establishment has become a point of reference for many. Among them three-starred Norbert Niederkofler, who wanted to offer Lovatel's pizzas also at the Rosa Alpina hotel in San Cassiano (Bolzano).

But a good pizza is not Lovatel’s only goal: “I often say,” he explained, “that I like to see pizza as a vehicle of communication, a way of getting ideas that are close to my heart across to the public in a simple and direct way. We must never forget how with a simple pizza we can reach many people, thousands and thousands of customers. In one evening alone we can convey our values to 300 people, trying to educate them, so to speak.”

Denis has been talking, through his pizzas, about sustainability for several years. Long before this word became misused, tacked, often haphazardly or opportunistically, onto everything. "Being born and raised in the mountains has certainly influenced me in this sense. The relationship with nature is part of my deepest identity, and living in a small mountain village taught me very early on to banish all forms of waste. Finally, meeting the small producers in my area made me realise the importance of creating virtuous economies, supporting farmers, cheesemakers and artisans, and pizza offers me several opportunities to achieve these goals.”

The latest goal achieved was the opening of Denis - Pizza di montagna in Milan, which opened in June 2022, after a long wait caused by the pandemic crisis. With an immediate and well-deserved success, of which pizza is the just protagonist: it’s light, with a honeycombed but crispy crust, and the central part of the leavened disc that maintains a meaty bite, despite being very thin. An admirable balance, highly digestible thanks to the very long leavening time (at least 52 hours) and the low salt content. Lovatel in fact adds a mix of mountain herbs and spices to its dough, which naturally give it flavour and umami. The toppings materialise that mountain identity that makes Denis's work unique.