Carlo Cracco, Alberto Gipponi, Enrico Bartolini, Andrea Aprea, Massimo Bottura on Wednesday morning at the Hub of Identità Golose Milano at the preview of the Identità Milano congress, which will take place from 28th to 30th January 2023 at MiCo in Via Gattamelata (photo Brambilla/Serrani)
Wednesday 18th January 2023. On this day the states-general of Italian fine dining meet again in freedom after years of restrictions, taboos or limitations. Not to celebrate who knows what, but to focus on the content to be explored in 10 days' time at MiCo in Via Gattamelata, the venue of the 18th edition of the Identità Milano Congress.
This year's theme is 'Ladies and gentlemen, the revolution is served', a fil rouge and a programme that was discussed for almost two hours at the press conference with the curators, restaurateurs and emblem-chefs of the congress, journalists, producers, and partners. Many irons in the fire, presented by Fabrizio Nonis, butcher/host and moderator of the day. Here is a summary of the talks and the essential points.
The first considerations come from Paolo Marchi, founder and curator of Identità: “We have given this year's edition this headline because the world is changing rapidly and we all must devote more attention to change than ever. We will have great international guests - Alex Atala, Albert Adrià or Andoni Luis Aduriz, Leo Espinosa, Angel Leon, Paco Morales, Chef Binta... - because the best ideas are born by addressing the world. It happens in conditions of peace and prosperity, and even more so now, in times of pandemic and war. We must urgently think of ideas that 15 years ago did not exist.”
"The last time we organised a conference 10 days before the congress," adds Claudio Ceroni, founder of MagentaBureau and Identità Golose, "was in 2019. We have returned to that format because never before have we had so many novelties as this year. Revolution is in the order of things: whether we’re immersed in it or overwhelmed by it, it will inevitably generate mistakes, but above all, it’s a great opportunity to change the nature of things as we have always thought of them. And this will also apply to us, starting with the new sets you will find at MiCo. The revolution is not only about the food but also about everything around it'.
Fabrizio Nonis and Davide Rampello
Rampello with councillor Alessia Cappello
Nonis, Bartolini, Guido Paternollo, Andrea Aprea
Nonis, Ceroni, Gipponi, Marchi
Camilla Cancellieri between Claudio Ceroni and Cinzia Benzi
Remotely, Luca Gargano
Enrico Berto and Cinzia Benzi
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes.
Il nuovo menu dell'Osteria Francescana, denominato I’m not there, è una nuova interpretazione di piatti classici del ristorante modenese. Tutte le foto sono di Paolo Terzi
Carlo Cracco and Luca Sacchi opened the second day in the Auditorium at Identità Milano 2023 with their lecture (photo by Brambilla / Serrani)
On stage in the Auditorium, Paolo Marchi and Gabriele Zanatta (who moderated the talk) together with the protagonists of Identità Talk: Giorgio Locatelli, Massimo Bottura, Brian McGinn and, remotely, David Gelb. All photos are by Brambilla-Serrani.