(Almost) 30 years of Villa Manodori, Bottura's dream dedicated to balsamic vinegar... And not only

On March 19th, 1995, Massimo Bottura opened Osteria Francescana in Via Stella, Modena, and in the same year, he began bottling balsamic vinegar, a family passion, under the Villa Manodori label- an ambitious and visionary project to tell the story of his Emilia region with patience, whilst honoring the passage of time. From its outset, this entrepreneurial journey allowed him to establish a solid foundation for exporting vinegar to the United States thanks to a friend he had met in New York, choosing a distributor who would position Villa Manodori at the highest levels.

An essential economy of scale made to support Massimo's Italian projects and to contribute to the creation of what is today the Francescana Family. As it approaches its thirtieth anniversary, Villa Manodori celebrates its success with a portfolio of products ranging from balsamic vinegar crus to liqueurs made with balsamic vinegar.

Since 2022, a 1969 vinegar factory adjacent to the country house Casa Maria Luigia has been restored by the Bottura couple to host around 1,400 barrels which rest alongside the artworks that Lara and Massimo have placed in this magical space. Villa Manodori is not a fanciful name. It is a 16th-century villa of the Estense family, located at the gates of Modena, now restored and home to Massimo’s sister Cristina and her husband Franco.

Legend has it that, during celebrations, balsamic vinegar was served at Villa Manodori as a digestive at the end of the meal. Villa Manodori vinegars are made exclusively from white Trebbiano di Spagna grapes, which have been present in the Modena area since the nineteenth century.

In the Modenese dialect the grape is known as "Tarbianèin": a bunch of golden-yellow grapes and greenish reflections. Not a particularly generous grape in terms of production, still ideal for the constant pursuit of quality. In fact, there is a meticulous selection process for cultivation and manual harvesting. The grapes are pressed gently so as to obtain the exclusivity of the free-run must, the essential base of a great vinegar.

"Just this morning," Bottura remarks, "we were in the vineyard removing weeds that weakens the strength of the vines. We've always worked to achieve the highest quality. Believing in quality makes all the difference through time. My approach is just like the one of the great Italian winemakers such as Soldera with Brunello or Gaja. Through their wines, they have provided an authentic expression of their territory with the courage to go beyond the disciplinary. I’m not the defamer of tradition but the most traditional of the traditional. And I know perfectly well, living in the contemporary world, that to keep tradition alive, you have to break it - I’ve said it a million times. Today, the two crus Ciliegio and Ginepro were born with this philosophy."

Two special editions of Extra Old Balsamic Vinegar crus created by chef Bottura who was inspired by the school of thought that sees balsamic vinegar as a more complex liquid, rich in tertiary aromas and toastiness in the case of Ginepro, and in contrast, fruitier aromas in the Ciliegio version. Aged in barrels from the old cellar where juniper or cherry woods from the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines have been infused, the Ginepro cru highlights notes of smoked wood, chocolate, coffee, and lots of incense.

Whereas the Ciliegio version is a balsamic condiment with a cherry aroma. In addition to the selection of wood, there’s an extract of Vignola cherries that, when infused into balsamic vinegar, results in a unique product: a perfect symphony between the acidity of the red fruit and the harmony of the balsamic itself.

Both vinegars are aged in juniper and cherry wood barrels, which are essential for characterizing the flavor profile of a vinegar that enhances a dish without overpowering it.

In addition to the range of vinegars aged from 12 to 25 months, such as Affinato or Extra Old, there’s the unique and award-winning Dark Cherry (balsamic vinegar aged in cherry wood barrels from Vignola orchards), the certified organic vinegar, and the aged Barolo Docg vinegar. 

Then there are the extra virgin olive oils in their traditional version, organic and made with Taggiasca cultivar from riper olives to obtain a incisive and non-nostalgic selection, according to Bottura's protocol. An olfactory explosion that captivates with the Essenziale line, a blend of extra virgin olive oil with essential oils of lemon, garlic, rosemary, chili pepper, black pepper, ginger, and basil.

But the creativity of the Modenese team flies far beyond the kitchen, reaching mixology to create incredible products that can be enjoyed in pure form or in a cocktail. MO-TO reinterprets the famous MI-TO, "Milano-Torino", made of vermouth and Campari, with the addition of Villa Manodori Dark Cherry balsamic vinegar, or the latest creation, LUV on the Rocks, perfect for summertime, refreshing, and very dear to the chef as it was named after his mother, Maria Luigia, affectionately called Nonna Lu. An infusion of Luigia herb that grows in the garden of the country house, with notes of citrus, carob, tea liqueur, and cocoa. A liquid with a golden color served pure with an ice cube. An ideal drink to beat the summer heat.

Talking with Massimo Bottura on the subject makes it clear, once again, that raw material is not enough. Quality requires a vision that leads to own a vinegar cellar permeated with history and modern functionality. Hence, the recent purchase of 1910 barrels, larger than those from 1920, 1930, and 1940, all restored and refilled. Not to mention, the recovery of rare Modenese vats that rest in the vinegar cellar alongside original works of art.

"Respect for tradition," says Massimo, "must be integrated with the needs of the present, and specifically for these restored ancient barrels, our trusted cooper has created corks perfectly integrated with the wood of the containers." In unison, in the vinegar factory, vinegars are elevated and enriched through time, composing a unique symphony of an unforgettable taste.

Many dishes that can be enjoyed in the Francescana Family restaurants—from Osteria Francescana to Cavallino, Gatto Verde, Franceschetta58, Gucci Osteria and Torno Subito - carry traces of Villa Manodori creations. As Bottura concludes with energy: "I often repeat that I alone am Massimo Bottura, but with my team, we are the Francescana Family. The value of the team is the essence of my work. I’ve turned my collaborators into my family. With Lara, especially in recent years, during lockdown, in a time of great crisis, we understood this concept of family even more deeply. During those dark months, my team chose to stay in Modena, which brings me immense satisfaction and pride".