21-10-2014
Gino and Antonio Sorbillo opened together their very central restaurant in Milan (tel. +39.02.45375930), which will then be personally managed by the younger brother. Lievito Madre al Duomo was based on the model of the almost homonymous restaurant recently opened by Sorbillo on the seaside of Naples, which differs from the historic family restaurant in Via dei Tribunali because of the use of natural yeast for the dough, which in Milan will be made of mixture of “0” flour and whole-wheat flour
A person from Milan who truly loves pizza knows this. It has always been difficult to eat a good one in town, as if a sort of malign curse was lingering. While the recent opening of a place such as Dry offered a quality choice, though distant from Neapolitan tradition, the arrival in Milan of Franco Pepe, which soon turned out to be a bad experience, especially for the pizza chef from Caserta, seemed to confirm a strange curse. Since a few days ago, however, Milanese people who are faithful to pizza can smile, jut like Gino Sorbillo always does in the photos people take of him. The story of the Sorbillo family begins in Via dei Tribunali: there, in the Thirties, his grandfather Luigi opened a small pizzeria. Of his twenty-one children, one daughter grew especially passionate about the art of dough-making. She’s called Esterina and worked in the restaurant for sixty-three years. Nephew Gino learnt everything from her, first by observing her, then working by her side. And then again running the pizzeria himself, renewing it and enlarging it, increasing its popularity in an exponential way.
Even though the opening of Lievito Madre al Duomo was last night, the pizzeria has been at work, and already very full, since a few days ago
Margherita Gialla is one of the 7 (+ 4...) pizzas in the menu. The pizzas, however, will change over the months
The classic placemat/menu of Sorbillo’s pizzerias
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by
Journalist, based in Milan. At 8 years old, he received a Springsteen record as a gift, and nothing was the same since. Music and food are his passions. Author and broadcaster at Radio Popolare since 1997, since 2014 he became part of the staff of Identità Golose Instagram: @NiccoloVecchia