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Filippo Chiappini Dattilo

There’s an ideological contiguity between Filippo Chiappini Dattilo and his Antica Osteria del Teatro in Piacenza. Strictness, class and gentlemanly of the chef watch a classical place where time is left out of an old-walled building. French allure. A sign from destiny to a man who became chef surely not for necessity but thanks to a pure and unexhausted passion. He’s a gourmet who loves food to the point to be he himself a successful mover.

Filippo Chiappini Dattilo is a timeless classic who builds plates just like if they were supposed to end on a Grand Gourmet magazine cover.
He’s not for simplicity, his genius loci is shown only through his primi dishes, where his city tradition is self-evident through strength and persuasiveness. But that’s it. France tradition, those of great chefs, comes out triumphant from every other plates. He loves superstructures, he quotes his classics, he prefers opulent dishes, rich of flavors. His cuisine is solid and tasty, executed with a great technical background and meticulous handicraft, it ogles to sweet flavors he gives birth through oriental spices’ contaminations.

Then he has a predilection for competing with great starred French chefs: scallops, foie gras, lambs. A sort of comparison test with his lifelong passions. His and those of his great teacher: Georges Cogny. Same school, same passion, same talent.
A talent whose epicenter is found underneath a steady and formal neoclassicism, which is so rare that it is almost unknown in Italy. And it never declines to mannerism: sure enough, his extracted taste is an impacting whip, developing into trickles and counterpoints. Taste as a natural consequence of a mighty palate.

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Identità Milano


by

Andrea Grignaffini

born in Parma in 1963, he directs the Guida Vini dell'Espresso and is the author of various books, the latest of which is "Il Cuoco universale. La cultura del piatto" (Marsilio)