Dvorec Zemono - Vipavska
Tomaž Kavcic’s success stands in his agile bursts on one side and the other of two different thresholds. There’s the space threshold, the Iron Curtain that until 1989 separated Italy from Yugoslavia, and that he now crosses as soon as the closing time of Pri Lojzetu allows him to, chasing ideas and techniques from the “other world”. Then there’s the time threshold, the one separating the before and after of Slovene gastronomy.
Once there was jota sauerkraut soup, kranjska sausage or heavy cakes of rolled-up dough, such as potica. Traditions Kavcic has not forgotten: «in Slovenia, it’s not Sunday if stock or soups are missing», he still says while he places beef stock and mushroom soups on the table, but only after having waved a lollypop or Champagne («I’m the landlord, first of all»). Let’s not forget the past, then, but better sift it with contemporaneity, which clamours for taste but also lightness, creativity and substance, impertinence and care. Thus the Adriatic fish can be swallowed in the vortex of a salt plate (his most resounding contribution to contemporary cuisine), or grilled in an oven with potatoes and vegetables. Thus Fettuccine with porcini and prosciutto ham are matched with Risotto with nettles and sea food, on the tracks crossed by a space/time machine which, set on current Slovenia, has no fear of exploring the West and the East, the past and the future millennium. All this with a marginal note that is hardly marginal: without great producer-friends, every effort would be an empty cry in the desert. This is why Kavcic, before beginning his jam session, invites to applaud the Vipava prosciutto ham, the Nanos cheese, the steaks from Pohorje. Then, to end it all, arrives the standing ovation dedicated to the wines of the Goriška brda.
born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes.
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The fun amuse bouche created a few weeks ago at Identità Golose Milano by Tomaz Kavcic of restaurant Pri Lojzetu in Zemono, Slovenia. The lunch was organised by the Slovenian Tourism Board, whose task is to promote the beauties and delicacies of this small country to the east of Italy
The entrance to DAM boutique hotel & restaurant in Ulica Vinka Vodopivca 24 in Nova Gorica, Slovenia, a stone’s throw away from the Italian border