Pierluigi Roscioli

Roscioli

via dei Chiavari, 34
Roma
T. +39.06.6864045
info@anticofornoroscioli.com

For gourmets in Rome it’s been the beginning of a new era, a sort of gastronomic jubilee: the expansion of the Roscioli family from the bakery in Via dei Chiavari to the delicatessen cum restaurant in the adjacent Via dei Giubbonari has brought a wave of high and constant quality in the humdrum routine of the capital’s restaurant industry.

The two Roscioli brothers, Alessandro and Pierluigi, heartened by the fame of the bakery, of which you can taste the focaccia and tomato pizza, the taralli and Lariano bread with walnut and olive variations, have demonstrated that they are also good with what goes with bread: from early in the morning to late at night, the counter is dominated by what reviewers in guides define as “a vast selection of cheeses and cold cuts”. From the cinta senese to Pierangelini’s extra virgin olive oil, to sea cold cuts and Moreno Cedroni’s pasta sauces, from the cheeses matured by Guffanti to the salts (plural, c’est la mode), to the important choice of bottles, to quality chocolate (three names among all: Amedei, Domori, Gobino). And then there are the tables, introduced so that you may sit and taste the selections of cheese and cold cuts with a glass of wine, and recipes that are neither pretentious nor strictly Roman.

Meanwhile, the kitchen has evolved (and the room itself has grown); the structure of the menu is the original one, with starters such as a buffalo milk mozzarella millefeuille, a tartare of selected meat cut with the knife, a few daily extras described on the spot by the waiter (mostly fish, served raw) and regional pasta dishes; in time, however, tradition has gained its space, perhaps thanks to the numerous non-Roman clients: so today among the dishes you shouldn’t miss at Roscioli’s there are bucatini cacio e pepe (intensified by a mix of Sechuan, Sarawak and Malaysian pepper), traditional meatballs, carbonara and amatriciana. All this while quality remains a constant, even with reference to the service. And so be it.

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Roberta Corradin

For over a decade Roberta Corradin has been covering travel and food for Italian Marie Claire, L'Espresso, La Repubblica, illywords and others. She is a contributor for Food Arts. Her Italian rendition of Spices, History of a Temptation by Jack Turner was awarded with Premio Costa d'Amalfi. She edited the English version of Nonna Genia's Classic Langhe Cookbook. Her fiction works are published in German, French, and Spanish. Her last book Le cuoche che volevo diventare focuses on women and cooking, and was published in Italy by Einaudi in 2008.