Angelica Giannuzzi

Pashà

via Morgantini, 2
70014 - Conversano (Bari)
+390804951079

Born in Castellana Grotte (Apulia) in 1982, Angelica Giannuzzi is the sweet chef at Pashà in Conversano (Bari) led in the dining room by Antonello Magistà and in the kitchen by Antonio Zaccardi, with whom Angelica has shared her personal and professional life for 20 years. The paso doble with Zac is a stellar escalation. The first at 18, in Bolzano, at Park Hotel Laurin. That's where they met. There, Angelica Giannuzzi takes the dessert station for the first time. Two touches of the tuning fork of destiny to tune heart and talent. The job was almost done. The best was yet to come.

Another stop at Pierino Penati in Viganò Brianza, where Enrico Crippa was born. Coincidences. From there to Milan, to the court of Cracco: «Rigour. Respect for the roles. For timing. Silence, utmost silence». Then a pit-stop in Luxembourg at Mosconi's: «The family of families». In the autumn of 2006, in the middle of the truffle fair: Angelica and Antonio arrive in Alba (Cuneo). Enrico Crippa, one of the favourite pupils of maestro Marchesi, already shows his exceptional talent, even on his bike, which Angelica draws on the birthday cake to celebrate the master chef's 40th. A close dialogue is born between the pastry-chef and the captain at Piazza Duomo, few words, lots of concreteness and complicity: «Crippa was able to generate that sparkle that would start a creative process in me. Nothing deeper, and more gratifying for me as I asked myself to connect my thoughts to his». In the silence of words and the eloquence of intentions one of the masterpieces of Piazza Duomo and of Italian cuisine was born: Panna cotta Matisse.

In May 2018, after lots of travelling, it's time to return. Destination Apulia, 900 km home. But the luggage this time weighs with all the experience, thoughts, and tools of fine craftmanship. These allowed Angelica Giannuzzi to sign desserts-non desserts like Panna cotta, lemon and prawns, a life-long journey in three ingredients. A night at the movies, an elegant architecture that holds many balances, of aerial structure: gel of passion fruit, toffee, cornflakes, caramel chocolate, corn, custard and powdered popcorn that reminds you of a visit to the cinema. Plus fried corn spaghetti. Like a toy for kids. After the 2020 lockdown Italiasù was born, echoing tiramisu with the force of an ola to the country. The silhouette of Italy is made with cream of mascarpone, almond paste from Toritto and Elisir Borsci San Marzano (made near Taranto). Finally, powdered coffee, cocoa and Carafin, a sugar that tastes like caramel. And in the end chips of cocoa beans, a crunchy and sour touch dosed with the skill of someone who knows what she's doing without showing off.

by

Sonia Gioia

A journalist by profession, curious by vocation, she applies her attitude to investigative reports and food features. She's author for Repubblica, Gambero Rosso, Dispensa​