Memoriesůby Franco Aliberti
Cantine Ferrari con IdentitÓ Golose? Ecco perchÚ
corso Torino, 34
corso Torino, 34
A swallow may have lost its way, but that which is crossing Italian cuisine is a surely full summer. One so radiant that you can’t avoid throwing away a faded calendar. The renaissance has the name of Cogo, Boer, Donati. And, last but not least, Christian Milone of Trattoria Zappatori, the Hirundines rusticae of a luminous, instinctive cuisine, one inclined to travelling with imagination, bringing back the sun.
Between uniformity and variety, Christian doesn’t stand out from this flock only because of his eccentricities: the blonde crest under the toque, the tattoo underneath the uniform, the custom-built car, as quick as his tongue and his jokes. Professionally a little younger than his age (he was born in 1979), son of chef Franco and Teresina, before deciding to wear his apron he was a professional cycler. He thus matured the drunkenness of acceleration that ruffles his best dishes, so much so that you can’t avoid to think of Paul Virilio’s dromocracy, that power of speed that informs our time. “Vitesse oblige”, says the French philosopher: “gaining speed always implies gaining power”. The Giro d’Italia continues on the gastronomic circuit, the maglia rosa peeps out from the half-closed uniform.
What is shooting, however, is the Gastronavicella, a parallelepiped placed like a U.F.O. in a courtyard in Pinerolo, next to the carmine red trattoria consecrated to a local cuisine at the same time sound and beyond our time. This is Christian’s gym, who, with perfect heteroglossy prepares next door, following the metronome of a Zen garden, his Onci, Oggetti Commestibili Non Identificati (Unidentified Edible Objects), following Claude Fischler’s acronym. Using mostly self-produced raw materials (the vegetables cultivated and picked at impossible maturation points by his father, who, in the future will also breed forgotten animals), he dares to use the binary rhythm of difficult and revealing pairings, with a gustative elegance based on micro-sensitive shades that show a profound sense of taste.
Born in 1979, Christian Milone is son of Francesco, cook at Trattoria Zappatori. After perfecting himself with Enrico Crippa, whom he considers his master, as of 2012 together with the family restaurant, which he took over, he runs the Gastronavicella, consecrated to creative recipes
Umbra di Perugia con residenza a Bologna, è giornalista e scrittrice di cucina. Tra i numeri volumi tradotti e curati, spicca "6, autoritratto della Cucina Italiana d’Avanguardia" per Cucina & Vini