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Jean-François Piège Beniamino  Nespor ed Eugenio Roncoroni Massimo Giovannini Emanuele Scarello Stevie Parle Julia Scavo Heinz Beck
Ryan Clift Identità  Golose - i protagonisti della cucina Alain Ducasse
Alexandre Gauthier Marco Stabile
Giorgio Nava Wylie Dufresne
Daniele Usai Alex Atala Jean-François Dargein David Kinch Antonio Pisaniello Simone Salvini Gabriele Bonci

Henderson, a lifetime achievement

British chef Fergus Henderson just won the Lifetime Achievement Award, ahead of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2014, taking place on the 28th of April at the London's Guildhalil. A meat maestro and founding partner of St. John, with several restaurants in London, Henderson has been awarded mainly because of the promotion of nose-to-tail cooking – the use of every part of the animal, which is now practised in many kitchens


Ninth Festival Loiseau at Belle Mare Plage

Ninth edition from 30th March, at Belle Mare Plage, a resort of Constance group on the island of Mauritius, of the Festival Culinaire Bernard Loiseau, ending Sunday 6th April. Six European young starred chefs and six young chefs of Constance group will cook divided into pairs, one cook from abroad one from here. In the jury, with madame Dominique Loiseau and chef Patrick Bertron, also Identità Golose with Paolo Marchi


Helena Rizzo best female chef 2014

Helena Rizzo, chef of Maní restaurant in Sao Paolo, Brazil, is the Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef 2014, according to the jury of World's 50Best Restaurant. Rizzo succeeds in the award to glorious colleagues such as Nadia Santini, Bask Elena Arzak and French Anne-Sophie Pic. The paulista chef will be awarded in London on next 28th April, the day when the 50 best restaurant's list will be officially announced


Berezutskiy best Russian young chef

It's Sergej Berezutskiy from Moscow the best young chef of the year 2014 in his country. The title, awarded today at restaurant White Rabbit in Moscow by an almost entirely Italian jury, will allow the cook to take part to the S.Pellegrino Cooking Cup 2014, scheduled in Venice for next June. Sergej is the twin brother of Ivan, already a name in the panorama of young and creative Russian cuisine


Nahm at the top of Asia

Bangkok's Nahm has been voted the best restaurant according to the S.Pellegrino Asia's World's 50 Best. The restaurant by chefs Thompson and Polsuk (recently seen at Identità Milano) ensues Tokyo's Narisawa, who ranked second this year. At the 3rd place, an Indian restaurant, Gaggan, based in Bangkok. Hong Kong's Amber ranked 4th and Tokyo's Ryugin 5th. With 17 restaurants out of the 50 China is the most represented country in the list


Bonci and Cuttaia ready for Omnivore

Paris, France, March 16-18th: the next edition of Omnivore, the "100% jeune cuisine" cooking congress, is ready to start at the Maison de la Mutualité, rue Saint Victor. In between the French chefs, both promising and already successful - from Piège to Toutain; from Pierre Gagnaire to Guillame Monjuré -  the schedule will include two Italians: Pino Cuttaia from Sicily and bread-and-pizza chef Gabriele Bonci from Rome


Italy-Thailand, a dinner at Trussardi

An important dinner will take place on Sunday February the 9th at Trussardi Alla Scala in Milan: resident chef Luigi Taglienti will host colleagues Dylan Jones and Bo Songvisava of Bo.lan restaurant in Bangkok, for a special meal organized together with Identità Golose. The tasting menu will include 6 dishes at the cost of 150 euro per person. For informations and bookings, alessandrolonghin-ext@trussardi.com, +39.366,6467249 


Ice-cream: France wins, Italy second

France has just won the sixth edition of Coppa del Mondo di Gelateria, Ice-cream world cup, at Sigep in Rimini. The team's subject, led by Elie Cazaussus and composed by Christophe Bouret, Benoit Lagache, Jean Christophe Vitte and Yazid Ichemrahen was about “Leonardo Da Vinci's universe”. Italy ranked second with Stefano Biasini, Massimo Carnio, Marco Martinelli e Luca Mazzotta. Poland ranked third


Luigi Nastri heads to Paris

Starting today, Luigi Nastri, always a chef of Settembrini in Rome, is the cook chief of Gazzetta restaurant in Paris. The former chef (and founder) Petter Nillson decided it was time to go back to Stockholm where his family lives. As Scatti di Gusto states, the Roman colony in Paris is now stronger than ever: after Giovanni Passerini at Rino, now it's time for Luigi Nastri


Eater's best restaurants 2013

Pakta in Barcelona, Amass and Bror in Copenaghen, Carbone and Mission Cantina in New York, Chengdu Taste in Los Angeles, Edwins in Cleveland, Saltimporten Canteen in Malmö. Sweden, Vin Papillon in Montreal (Canada). These are just a few of many restaurants quoted into the traditional Eater's survey. The renowned food online magazine asked the opinion to several important food journalists and experts


Gvci, Salicrù chef of the year

Ivan Icra Salicrù of restaurant Ronda in Dubai was nominated chef of the year by Gvci, Gruppo virtuale di cuochi italiani, an award estabilished to celebrate non Italian chefs cooking Italian cuisine abroad. Salicrù will receive a silver plate and will be invited to take part, next January the 17th, to the International Day of Italian Cuisines. The Italian dish they celebrate this year is Spaghetti with tomato and basil


AltoGusto at Tivoli in Cortina

Dolomiti mountains are hosting AltoGusto, a gastronomic tour dedicated to cucina d'autore in the best restaurants of the area, with menu inspired by the theme "Cinema in the kitchen". On Friday December 13th, you can have dinner at Tivoli in Cortina d'Ampezzo (Belluno) with chef Graziano Prest and Cantine Ferrari, together with an homage to actor Alberto SordiAltoGusto will proceed then with 6 more dinners


Happy birthday, Identità English

December 2nd 2012 – December 2nd 2013 – the English version of Identità Golose’s website turns one. During the past 365 days, Slawka G. Scarso’s team has translated as many as 410 articles in 28 sections, a great number of pieces to be added to the over 300 portraits of chefs and to the hundreds of recipes that have enriched the website from the start. This important project aims to increase the audience of enthusiasts far beyond the Italian borders


Casa Vicina's 10th anniversary

Tomorrow night, great dinner at Eataly Lingotto in Turin. They will celebrate the 10th year anniversary of restaurant Casa Vicina - Guido per Eataly, one Michelin star. Together with Claudio and Anna Vicina there will also be chef Peter Brunel. Dinner is 75 euro per person, wines included, 8 courses from Potato cooked in argyle together with rice stems and trout eggs to an Inusual panettone. For bookings +39.011.19506840


Bottura and the Operazione Parigi

It's called Operazione Parigi and it's a project that is "going to take Italian food culture to the gastronomic capital of the world", with lectures on excellence held at the Italian institute of culture taken by Massimo Bottura, the first promoter, together with 16 important colleagues: Uliassi, Cedroni, Esposito, Perbellini, Cuttaia, Sultano, Oldani, Romito, Alajmo, Cannavacciuolo, Cracco, Scabin, Beck, Crippa, Berton, Cerea and Niederklofer



Identità Golose 10 years (Video Brambilla - Serrani - Cicogna, duration 5'31")

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The truths of the fish world revealed by Antonio Vasile. Against a thousand lies and dangerous commonplaces


Are they all scallops?

The noble mollusc attracts frauds. Always read the labels carefully

A specimen of pecten maximus, the giant scallops from Northern Europe: they have a maximum of 15 cm and 15-17 rays. A precious food, always fashionable, the shells of Saint Jacques are named after the Saint venerated by the pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela (photo www.aphotomarine.com)

A specimen of pecten maximus, the giant scallops from Northern Europe: they have a maximum of 15 cm and 15-17 rays. A precious food, always fashionable, the shells of Saint Jacques are named after the Saint venerated by the pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela (photo www.aphotomarine.com)

Also known in the basin of the Mediterranean sea as Jacob’s comb (from its scientific name, pecten jacobeus), the shell of Saint James is sacred. A symbol for the pilgrims walking to Santiago de Compostela, it was used to drink the water from the rivers on the way to the famous sanctuary on the Iberian peninsula. The Saint Jacques shell needed to be sawn on the cap or on the hat and it was the symbol that would let everyone know that the pilgrim had reached and visited the tomb of Saint James in the distant and green region of Galicia.

Inside the shell of this precious mollusc one can find a sweet yet sapid seafood, highly appreciated in modern cuisine. Scallops belong to the family of Pectinidae, and in some countries they are in fact called “combs” because of the typical shape of their shells. There are many kinds but I would like to focus on the most commonly sold ones.

BAD LABEL. The label of a frozen product: the ingredients include water, absorbed by the scallops so as to raise its weight. From Holland

BAD LABEL. The label of a frozen product: the ingredients include water, absorbed by the scallops so as to raise its weight. From Holland

Let’s start from the pecten maximus, the giant scallops from Northern Europe. They have a maximum diameter of 15 cm with 15-17 rays on the surface of the shell, and we can tell them because of the large orange ovary. It is also called coral, because of its typical colour, and together with the white part of the abductor muscle, it represents the edible part of this excellent mollusc. We then have the pecten jacobeus, the smaller scallop, caught in smaller quantities in the Mediterranean Sea, with 14-16 rays on the shell. Then there’s the Chlamys opercularis, also known as the Queen scallop, which measures 10 cm at most and has 30 rays, and the Chlamys varia, the Mediterranean species the French call pètoncle and the Spanish call zamburina. While in Europe the presence of the ovary is considered as a sign of quality and determines a higher price for this seafood, in the American continent it is discarded. The quality of their scallops is very high and due to their unique sweetness they are highly appreciated all over the world.

GOOD LABEL. The product is 100% natural scallop. From the United States

GOOD LABEL. The product is 100% natural scallop. From the United States

The fruit of the scallops, that is to say the edible part of this mollusc, has a very low weight when compared to the total weighty, including the shell. Because of this, when it is sold by itself, the retail price can be quite high, from 25 to 60 euros per kilo. This is the reason why this is one of the most imitated products in the food-fraud sector. For instance, I’ve seen small, cylindrical pieces of monkfish cut so as to resemble a scallop, but there’s also the classic scallop surimi, the pulp of cheap fish tied together artificially to compose the typical circular shape, just like with the more common crab surimi. The latest novelty in the scallop market is the re-composed scallop, made with discarded pieces of scallop tied together with a protein inside a mould that can reproduce scallops of all dimensions.

The worst thing is that one can often find products that are processed and de-frozen without any mention of this step in the label. These products destabilise the market of quality products and, because they are cheaper, they often end up in our dishes without us knowing it. It is important, therefore, to carefully read the label, a trick which allows us at least to understand most of the things that need to be known: fishing area, possible preservatives and whiteners, country in which the product was processed which, if it is different from the one of origin, it is likely to mean that the product was frozen and then de-frozen, processed and then sent according to the market’s demand.

Antonio Vasile
Mare Aperto
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Are they all scallops?
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The right size
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