It may sound crazy, but Yoji Tokuyoshi is (also) a sort of contemporary Aimo Moroni, just to give a Milanese reference. Not in terms of style and dishes, of course: they couldn’t be more different. But in the approach to raw materials, in the curiosity with which he explores Italy’s gastronomic heritage. Except that, contrary to Aimo, he does so with very different eyes – and spectacles, strictly round: the eyes that come from his Japanese origins. This is the base for his approach, which is also influenced by the essential training with Massimo Bottura and all this may imply.
In this sense,
Tokuyoshi – regarding whom opinions strongly differ. And we, just to make it clear, really appreciate him – is a very important resource for Italian food: because he’s almost full time committed in listening to our gastronomic soul, and then interpret it, change it in his very “fusion” personal interpretation. A difficult, ambitious road, full of adversities, which don’t stop the chef however as he looks for his personal vision of signature cuisine.
A memorable photo of Massimo Bottura and Yoji Tokuyoshi, when the latter was sous chef at Osteria Francescana
The fact this is the road clear in his mind, is confirmed by what he told us recently, at the end of a great dinner at
his restaurant: «I’ll soon have a “
food curator”. A new idea. I think it will be necessary: a cook who can work for me, and have a specific task. He’ll have to travel around the country in search for the best food, the perfect suppliers of products that are impossible to find. Hence the need for a specific role».
Yoji is already dreaming of sending this person to Sicily, Sardinia, and then the rest of the country, which is a treasure chest often still awaiting the arrival of its
Livingstone. «In a few years’ time this experience may become a book». And what a book!
A pizza carton box is served...
... hiding a fake pizza made with puffed rice
’s projects are both concrete and dreamful. He’s already explaining how he’ll host two fishermen straight from Japan, in April and May, because he cooks, surely, but he also observes the different culinary cultures and studies their meeting. And then in July and August he’ll travel around the world, visiting many restaurants for as many four-handed dinner events.
His restaurant in Via San Calocero will be closed. In fact, it will be a working site: «We will renovate it completely». A great open view kitchen will become its heart, in the middle. It will replace the stations used for cold preparations and for finishing the dishes; around, lots of stools where one can snack, looking at the kitchen, while the real tables will be placed to form two “Ls” that meet at one end. The entire space will grow longer and larger. In the end they’ll seat 10 more people, by adding some square metres now occupied by the entrance; the latter will be moved to the opposite side. «Green will still be the main colour. It’s my favourite. I’m keeping it».
He’s also keeping some intuitions that characterise dining at his restaurant: broth, often vegetal, paired with the courses; the often monochromatic and very detailed appearance of the dishes, as in the photo opening this piece, Lingua & coda. He adds more structure, which recalls the initial gamble: the “pure Tokuyoshi style” of which we spoke little over a year ago, is making its way, convincingly so. (Our dinner in the photo gallery by Tanio Liotta).
Translated by Slawka G. Scarso
