06-05-2015
The brilliant Bagnacaoda QR code that Enrico Panero, chef at restaurant Da Vinci di Eataly Firenze, presented yesterday in Identità Expo’s temporary restaurant. From a winter dish, "bagna calda" thus becomes a dish for every season, even the warmest ones. In Florence it will soon be in the menu as a starter (photo credits Brambilla/Serrani)
Bagnacaoda (or Bagna cauda), who would have said. The great classic from the salt way in Piedmont returns full of assertiveness and trapped into new borders under the pastry-bagof Enrico Panero, a brilliant talent at the helm of restaurant Da Vinci di Eataly Firenze, the first protagonist of "Identità Giovani", the format which every Tuesday at 4 pm will point the spotlights on the under 30 protagonists of the best Italian cuisine.
The initial sparkle of the 28 year old from Fossano is QR Code, the two-dimensional barcode, emblem of the rampant app-digitalisation of the real world. «I chose it because in my Pindaric flight I wanted to give myself some points of reference that would not allow me to lose sight of tradition: Q stands for quadro [painting/square], the symbol of creativity par excellence; R stands for rationality, the breaks setting a limit to travelling without boundaries. Code is my personal code». It is a brilliant and international way to get on the stage of Expo, «an international stage on which I’m honoured to be».
Enrico Panero, 28, a rising star (photo credits Brambilla/Serrani)
Everything else is the re-actualisation of a precise memory: «My family would put bagnacaoda in the centre of the table, together with a basket of cooked and raw vegetables. It happened once a month, it was a special day». The same happens inside the square: the anarchy of the QR code points is represented by raw carrots, asparagus, red shallots, turnips and peppers, also cooked, peeled and diced. There are also powdered walnuts, a memory of a Piedmontese custom that is coming back. Oil (a jelly with a little addition of glucose) a touch of salt and voilà, the pinwheel of textures finally acquires value.
Christian Costardi, another bagnacaoda expert, was also in the audience (Brambilla/Serrani)
It is finally our turn, to very happily fall under the blows of a bagnacaoda that as of today is also available in a spring-summer version. It will soon be the starter before the starters at Panero’s.
Activities, ideas and protagonists in Identità Golose's location inside the 2015 World Fair
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt
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