An extraordinary fourhanded dinner on Saturday 8th August, with two excellent protagonists, under the theme of cosmopolitism: two women who happen to be in Italy after discovering the world. Cristina Bowerman, chef at Glass Hostaria in Rome, in a duet with Alice Delcourt, of restaurant Erba Brusca in Milan.
Calamari filled with spicy ricotta, sea urchin, bonito and salicornia sauce, orange
The fourhanded menu will debut with
Bowerman and her
Gazpacho meets ceviche meets ‘nduja (paired with Trentodoc Ferrari
Perlé 2008 by
Cantine Ferrari). It was first presented during the dinner dedicated to biodiversity and organised by Eataly and Identità Golose last 27th May, and this is how we described it: “A sort of triangle between Italy, Mexico and Texas, with the sea fruit from
Cafagna, San Felice Circeo (but there were also prawns from Mazara del Vallo), swimming in a very liquid gazpacho, with crispy almonds, chervil, coriander, corn, apples, celery and lime juice, all paired with cornbread from the States aromatised with ‘nduia from Calabria. A crossover with plenty of aromas, freshness and taste”.
It will then be the turn of Delcourt, with Risotto with smoked aubergines, lemons preserved in salt, mint and sesame, paired with Frascati Superiore Docg Santa Teresa 2014 by Fontana Candida. This dish is thus explained: «I’m in love with Middle Eastern cuisine: Lebanese, Moroccan and so on. From that tradition, for instance, I take the aubergines smoked directly on the fire, acquiring a slightly burnt flavour. In this case they are blended and used to season the Carnaroli risotto together with sesame cream tahina. Then there’s another inspiration from Morocco: lemons preserved in salt which we often use at Erba Brusca to add a little extra acidity, and mint, to add freshness... and to try an unusual pairing in Italy - aubergines and mint that is».
Basil panna cotta, apricots in osmosis, toasted corn crumble and lemon mousse
The word goes once again to
Bowerman:
Calamari filled with spicy ricotta, sea urchin, bonito and salicornia sauce, orange (
Montéj Rosé 2014 by
Villa Sparina): «It is a bit of a quotation of the
Roca brothers», of a historical dish of theirs, with the catch of the day served with olive oil emulsion with fennel, bergamot, orange, pine nuts and green olives. Here the chef chooses calamari cooked at low temperature, which has an almost “neutral” function: it supports the different aromas that embrace it in turn, the spiciness of the ricotta, the bonito sauce, the sea urchin sauce, the salicornia, the citrus fruit… Lots of Asia, lots of deliciousness.
Finally there’s Delcourt with her Basil panna cotta, apricots in osmosis, toasted corn crumble and lemon mousse (Moscato Rosa Alto Adige Athesis 2011 by Kettmeir): «The issue was finding a dessert that would be craveable but would also suit this heat and not be heavy. Hence no chocolate and the like». The solution: infusing basil in the milk, as if it were tea, and using it to make the panna cotta. You then add seasonal fruits (apricots, but peaches would also do: it depends on what is the best the market offers), preserved in a vacuum pack with syrup – little sugar, only 30%; a crumble made with toasted corn flour, almonds and salt; a lemon cream that is very similar to a lemon curd. Delicious!
